The misunderstanding behind the question
It is easy to picture vaccination as protection against meeting a sick rabbit at the fence — and an indoor rabbit never meets one. The problem is that the two serious rabbit diseases, myxomatosis and rabbit viral haemorrhagic disease, mostly do not travel rabbit-to-rabbit in the way owners imagine. They travel on carriers that cross a doorstep without anyone noticing. That is why vets treat indoor rabbits as needing protection on essentially the same basis as outdoor ones: the house removes direct contact, and direct contact was never the main route in the first place. What indoor living changes is the size of the risk, not whether the risk exists.
How disease gets into an indoor home
Biting insects are the clearest route. Fleas and mosquitoes carry myxomatosis, and a mosquito through an open window in summer does not know your rabbit is an indoor pet. The second route is material brought inside: hay, straw, and fresh forage all come from fields where wild rabbits live, and virus can persist on them and on the packaging. The third route is the household itself — shoes that walked across a park, hands that stroked someone else's rabbit, a dog or cat coming in from the garden with fleas in its coat. None of these routes requires carelessness; they are ordinary daily life passing through a home that happens to contain a rabbit.
What the diseases do, in plain terms
Myxomatosis causes severe swelling around the eyes, face, and genitals, discharge, fever, and loss of appetite, and it is usually fatal in an unprotected rabbit. Rabbit viral haemorrhagic disease attacks the liver and blood clotting and can kill so quickly that an owner finds a rabbit dead with few or no warning signs beforehand — there is also a second variant of the virus that behaves slightly differently and can affect younger rabbits. Neither disease has a treatment that reliably cures it once established, which is precisely why prevention carries the whole weight here: by the time either illness is visible, vaccination can no longer help that rabbit.
What to discuss with your vet
Vaccination specifics belong to your vet, because what is offered and recommended depends on the products available and the disease picture where you live. At a health check, ask which diseases the vaccine your practice uses covers — in particular whether it protects against both variants of the haemorrhagic disease — when a young rabbit should start, and how the booster rhythm works for an adult. That same visit is a chance to have your rabbit's teeth, weight, and rear end checked, and to talk about flea prevention for any dogs or cats in the home, since protecting the household's other pets closes one of the routes in. If your rabbit came from a rescue or breeder, bring whatever vaccination history you were given so the vet can judge whether a course needs starting or simply continuing.
Do not let a gap in the paperwork become a gap in cover
The common failure with indoor rabbits is not refusal — it is drift. A rabbit vaccinated as a youngster moves house, changes vet practice, or simply has an owner who assumes the indoor life made boosters unnecessary, and years pass without anyone revisiting it. Keep the record where you will actually see it: the vaccine given, the date, and when the next one is due, alongside your rabbit's other health details. If you genuinely cannot find any record of earlier vaccination, tell the new vet that honestly rather than guessing — starting fresh on advice is safer than assuming cover that may not exist.
One record, ready wherever it is needed
Vaccination proof is asked for in more places than the vet's surgery — boarding facilities commonly require it before accepting a rabbit, and a new practice will want the history before continuing a course. In KinsLe, your rabbit's Pet Passport keeps vaccinations together with the rest of his records in one portable packet, ready to show at a vet visit, a boarding handoff, or a change of practice without digging through old paperwork.