Go in expecting noise of a particular kind. The West Highland White Terrier is an alert, earth-dog breed, and barking at arrivals, at movement past the house, and at sounds its ancestors would have investigated is terrier-typical behavior rather than a defect. A Westie will never be the dog that sleeps through the doorbell, and a household that needs near-silence should choose a different breed with open eyes. What training can deliver is a dog that reports, is acknowledged, and then stops: barking with an ending, at a volume and duration a household can live with.
Reward the quiet after the alert
The workable sequence accepts the first barks as the dog doing its job. Let the dog announce the arrival, acknowledge it calmly in a level voice, then give the settle cue, a consistent word such as enough, and wait for the pause. The moment the dog is quiet, even for two seconds at first, reward that quiet with food, praise, or a favored toy, so the dog learns the sequence ends in quiet and the quiet is what pays. Extend the pause gradually before rewarding. Keep your own voice down throughout; shouting over a barking terrier reads to the dog as joining in, and a household of people yelling quiet at a barking dog is, from the dog's side of the room, a louder bark.
Send the dog somewhere: the settle spot
A cue works better with a destination. Teach the dog a settle spot, a mat or bed a short distance from the door, where good things arrive once the alert is acknowledged. The routine becomes: bark, be thanked, be sent to the mat, be rewarded for staying there quietly while the door is dealt with.
Manage the triggers you can see
Training competes badly with a live show. A Westie with all-day access to a street-facing window has a job it never clocks out of, and rehearsing the full bark at every passerby dozens of times a day builds the habit faster than training sessions can shrink it. Restrict window access during the training period, close blinds at peak street hours, or move the dog's favorite perch to a room facing the yard. At the door, a baby gate or a leash held calmly keeps the dog from rehearsing the charge-and-bark routine at full stretch while the settle sequence is still new.
Check boredom before blaming temperament
Some household barking is an energy bill coming due. A Westie that is under-exercised and under-occupied will bark at smaller triggers, for longer, and settle more slowly, and no cue training outperforms a tired, occupied dog. Before concluding that a dog is exceptionally barky, audit the day: a real walk, play, sniffing games on walks or in the yard, a long-lasting chew, and company through the day. Punishment-based tools, bark collars and sprays included, are not recommended or endorsed here; they suppress the symptom by adding discomfort to arousal, they do nothing to teach the quiet that pays, and they commonly attach the discomfort to the visitor or the street rather than to the barking.
One response from everyone in the house
A settle cue collapses when one person rewards the quiet, another shouts, and a third slips the dog a treat mid-bark to hush it. The household needs a single written plan: the same cue word, the same sequence, and the same rule about what earns a reward. On KinsLe, the Care Teams plan for the dog assigns the jobs that keep this honest: one named person owns the morning settle practice, another named person keeps the trigger log noting whether the door, the window, or boredom set the dog off, and each observation is written into the plan the same day. Patterns surface quickly in that log, and the plan adjusts to the triggers the dog actually has. KinsLe stops mixed messages from undoing the training because Care Teams shows who practiced the settle today and which trigger set the dog off.