The minimum footprint for an adult hog-nosed snake
An adult hog-nosed snake should have an enclosure with a footprint of at least 30 by 12 inches, the floor size of a 20-gallon long tank, and an adult female, which grows noticeably larger than a male, is better served by 36 by 18 inches. Hog-nosed snakes are compact, stout-bodied burrowers rather than climbers, so trading floor length for a tall tank gives the snake volume it will never use. Within that footprint the snake should be able to stretch along the long side, cross between a warm hide and a cool hide, and disappear completely beneath the substrate. A secure, clipped or sliding lid is part of the minimum, because even this placid species investigates every seam when active.
Deep substrate is the real living space for a hog-nosed snake
Deep substrate is where an adult hog-nosed snake actually lives, and enclosure size should be judged by how much tunnelling room it holds. Fill the floor with several inches of loose, diggable substrate from end to end so the snake can build burrows that hold their shape and run in multiple directions. Hog-nosed snakes use their upturned snouts like shovels, and a snake that can vanish underground on its own terms is far calmer at the surface during feeding and handling. Keep one area slightly more humid by placing the water bowl over part of the warm side or adding a humid hide, giving the snake a moister burrow for shedding. Shallow substrate in a nominally correct footprint still fails this species, because its security comes from below ground.
Hides, water, and warmth arranged along the long axis
Arranging a hog-nosed snake enclosure along its long axis lets the temperature gradient and the burrowing space reinforce each other. Set the warm hide at one short end over the heat source, a second hide at the cool end, and a heavy, shallow water bowl where the snake can soak its whole body without tipping it while burrowing past. Low pieces of bark or a small branch add surface interest for the snake's active morning explorations, but keep them light so a tunnelling snake cannot be pinned if substrate shifts. Because hog-nosed snakes are famously dramatic when startled, playing dead or hooding up, a layout that never forces the snake into the open keeps those displays rare. Feed inside the enclosure or in a familiar routine so the move to a separate tub does not become the day's main disturbance.
Appetite changes and other watch-outs in a small burrower
A hog-nosed snake that refuses food for an extended stretch deserves a layout review before panic, since hog-nosed snakes are known for seasonal fasting, especially males. Check first that the warm end is truly warm, that burrowing depth is generous, and that the snake is not approaching a shed, all common and fixable reasons for missed meals in this species. Continuous surface pacing, repeated soaking, or visible mites around the eyes and chin are different matters and point toward stress or a health problem. Weight loss alongside refusal, wheezing, or discharge around the mouth means a reptile veterinarian should examine the snake. If feeding turns rotate among family members, KinsLe Family Sharing keeps a shared record so a fast gets noticed rather than accidentally restarted.