Treat the change in jumping as information, not just age
A cat who loses weight and stops jumping is telling you two things at once: her body may be changing, and your flat now asks more of her than it used to. Sore joints, muscle loss, dental pain, thyroid or kidney problems, and several other conditions can sit behind this combination, so a veterinary check belongs at the start of the plan, not after weeks of rearrangement. Home changes help her cope, but they should never be used to explain the weight loss away.
While you wait for that appointment, note practical details. Which jumps has she given up first — the bed, the windowsill, the top of a wardrobe? Does she hesitate, scrabble, or land heavily when she does try? Is she eating less, or eating normally and still slimming? Those specifics help a vet, and they also tell you exactly where your flat needs to change first.
Make height optional everywhere she loves to be
Work through her favourite places one by one and give each a low-effort route up and down. A sturdy step stool, a low ottoman, or a carpeted ramp beside the sofa removes the single big leap that now puts her off. Move a halfway perch closer to the windowsill so she can still watch the street in two short climbs instead of one. Check that every step is stable, wide enough for a hesitant turn, and covered with a surface her paws can grip.
Downward jumps matter as much as upward ones. A cat who can still get onto a bed may dread the landing on a hard floor. Place a thick rug or low platform where she usually lands, and avoid rearranging the route once she has learned it. In a small flat this may mean one clear climbing corridor rather than scattered furniture she has to improvise around each time.
Bring the essentials down to one easy floor
If your flat has stairs or split levels, set up a complete base on the level where she spends most of her day: food, water, a litter tray with a low entry side, and a warm bed. A high-sided tray she once cleared easily can become a daily obstacle, so cut no corners here — choose a tray she can step into without lifting sore legs, and place it somewhere private but not hidden behind doors she must push.
Raise food and water bowls slightly if she seems stiff in the neck or shoulders, and put a washable mat underneath to stop bowls sliding on hard floors. Scatter and rugs are hazards for a cat whose footing is less sure, so secure rug edges, clear trailing cables, and keep a clear path between her bed, tray, and bowls that stays open at night as well as during the day.
Food, warmth, and watching the trend
Weight loss means the eating setup deserves the same attention as the furniture. Feed measured meals in a quiet spot where she is not rushed by other pets, and keep a simple weekly note of her weight if your vet advises home weighing, plus how much she actually finishes. A thinner cat also feels the cold more, so offer a draught-free bed with soft padding away from doors, and a second option in a sunny spot so she can choose.
Reassess after a week of changes. Is she using the steps, reaching her lookout again, and moving between rooms with less pausing? Or is she still avoiding movement, eating poorly, and losing condition? The second pattern needs the vet back in the conversation quickly, even if the flat itself is now perfect. Comfort adaptations buy ease, not time, when the underlying cause has not been found.
When several people share the flat, one shared set of notes stops her care drifting between well-meaning versions, and KinsLe's Family Sharing keeps her profile, feeding notes, and vet observations in one place everyone in the home can follow.