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Horses & Farm Animals · Choosing & Adopting

How do I choose healthy chicks from a hatchery or farm store?

Published October 27, 2026

The short answer

Pick chicks that look like they are enjoying being alive: bright-eyed, active, standing tall on straight legs and toes, peeping softly, exploring, then settling to sleep in a loose group. Handle each candidate — it should feel surprisingly solid for its size, with a clean, dry vent, smooth down, a straight beak and a healed, dry navel. Walk away from chicks that are hunched, silent, wobbling or pasted up around the vent, however sorry you feel for them, because a chick struggling on day one rarely catches up. Watch the whole brooder as well, since evenly spread chicks mean the temperature and management are right, and start each chosen chick's KinsLe Pet Passport that day with its source and first health notes.

Read the Brooder Before You Pick Up a Chick

The flock tells on the individual. In a well-run brooder, chicks are spread out — some eating, some drinking, some asleep in small piles — and the noise is a contented, intermittent peeping. Chicks all crushed under the heat lamp are cold; chicks pressed against the far walls, panting, are too hot; and loud, constant crying means something in the setup is wrong. Check that feeders and drinkers are clean and at chick height, and that the bedding is dry. A store or hatchery that keeps its brooders like this is already halfway to selling you healthy birds.

The Hands-On Health Check

Lift each chick you are considering. A healthy chick feels dense and warm, with bright, round eyes and an alert head that looks around. The vent — the rear opening — must be clean and dry; droppings pasted over it are a common killer in the first week and a reason to reject that chick and scrutinise its broodermates. Down should be fluffy rather than sticky or patchy, breathing quiet with no clicking, and the chick should push against your fingers with some strength rather than hanging limply.

Legs, Beak and Belly Details

Set the chick down and watch it walk. Legs should be centred under the body, toes straight and flat — splayed legs or curled toes point to incubation or flooring problems that worsen as the bird gains weight. The beak should meet evenly top and bottom; a crossed beak makes eating progressively harder. Turn the chick gently over: the navel should be closed, dry and invisible under the down, not a dark, open button, which is an entry point for infection. These checks take seconds each and filter out most of the chicks that would have died in their first fortnight.

Ask About Sexing, Vaccination and Breed Fit

Three questions sharpen your choice further. Ask whether the chicks are sexed or straight-run: straight-run batches include cockerels, which matters if your rules or your neighbours rule roosters out. Ask what the chicks have been vaccinated against, if anything, and whether the source flock is managed for the common brooder diseases — a hatchery that answers plainly is showing its standards again. And check the breed against your purpose and climate: a heavy laying hybrid, a fluffy ornamental breed and a fast-growing meat bird are three different commitments wearing the same cute down for the first fortnight.

The Trip Home and First Hours

Transport chicks warm, dark and draught-free, and have the brooder at home running and up to temperature before you leave to buy — the first hours after arrival are when chilled chicks fade. Dip each beak in the drinker as you place it in, watch that it finds the feed, and resist handling them beyond that for the first day. Note where each chick came from and anything you observed as you unpacked them; starting a KinsLe Pet Passport for each chick that day means those first notes, and every health entry after them, stay with that bird's record as your flock grows.

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