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How do I deal with a dog who loves swimming but whose coat takes hours to dry afterward?

Published October 26, 2026

The short answer

Let him swim — then treat the drying as a job with stages instead of an afternoon of damp dog. Rinse the lake or pool water out first, towel him hard, then work through the coat with a dryer on a cool setting or strong airflow, parting the dense areas so air reaches skin, not just the surface. Check and dry his ears, since trapped water after swimming is a classic trigger for ear trouble. KinsLe Care Teams lets you build that rinse-and-dry sequence into his swim-day duties, so whoever takes him swimming knows the drying shift is part of the outing, not optional.

A wet-through coat is a skin problem, not just a smell

A heavy, water-loving coat — the kind on retrievers, spaniels and their crosses — holds litres of water in its undercoat long after the surface feels merely damp. Skin left wet and warm for hours is skin inviting trouble: hot spots flare in the trapped humidity, bacteria and yeast thrive, and the coat felts into mats as it dries in clumps. So the goal is not to stop the swimming he lives for; it is to compress the drying window from most of a day down to something manageable, and to protect the two casualties of slow drying — his skin and his ears.

Stage one: rinse before you dry

Never dry the water he swam in into the coat. Lake, river and pond water carries algae, bacteria and whatever the bank held; pool water carries chlorine; sea water leaves salt that itches as it dries. A clean-water rinse at home — hose on a gentle setting, shower or buckets — until the water running off him is clear removes most of what would otherwise sit against his skin for hours.

If he swims somewhere with known blue-green algae warnings, the rule is stricter: keep him out entirely, since that is a poisoning risk no rinse can be trusted to undo.

Stage two: take the water out in layers

Towel first, and towel hard — a super-absorbent towel or chamois worked through the coat removes a surprising share of the water and tells you where the coat holds it deepest, usually the chest, neck, belly and the backs of the legs. Then add moving air. A pet dryer on its cool or low setting, or any strong airflow, should be worked in sections: part the coat, aim air at the skin, and move steadily rather than blasting one spot while the rest stays soaked underneath a dry-looking surface. Brush gently as sections dry to separate the undercoat so air keeps reaching through, and tease out forming tangles now, while they are damp and forgiving, rather than tomorrow when they have set like felt.

Ears: the five minutes that prevent the vet visit

Swimming fills ear canals, and in floppy-eared swimmers that water sits in a warm, dark bend — prime conditions for the ear infections these breeds know well. After every swim, lift each flap, wipe the visible folds dry with cotton wool or soft gauze, and if your vet has recommended a drying ear cleaner for swimmers, use it as directed after swims specifically. Watch over the next two days for head shaking, ear scratching or a new sweetish smell from the ear, and get him seen if they appear rather than cleaning harder at home. Between swims, keep the hair around the ear opening tidy so air can circulate as the canal dries naturally.

Planning swim days so the drying actually happens

The practical fix is scheduling honesty: a swim is not a one-hour outing, it is a one-hour outing plus a drying shift, so plan swims when someone has the time to finish the job — not last thing before guests arrive or before a cold night in a tent. Keep the full kit together where he comes in from the water: rinse access, towels, dryer, brush and ear gear, so the routine starts on autopilot while he is still pleased with himself.

Putting the rinse, dry and ear check down as swim-day duties in KinsLe Care Teams means the person who enjoys taking him to the water also sees the follow-through listed, with each stage marked done before the towel hits the wash.

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