Work out what 'struggling' actually looks like
An old rabbit may leave hay for several different reasons, and the feeding fix differs for each. Some cannot chew long, coarse strands comfortably because of sore teeth or a stiff jaw. Some would eat happily but cannot reach a rack that once suited a younger, more athletic body, especially with arthritic shoulders or a sore spine. Others eat hay readily but lose condition anyway, which raises different questions about teeth roots, gut function and pain.
Spend a few days observing before changing everything. Note which strands are left — usually the thickest stems — whether pellets and greens are still managed, and whether your rabbit picks food up and drops it, chews on one side, or has a wet chin. That pattern is exactly what a vet will ask about, and it tells you whether to soften the hay, move the hay, or book the dental check first.
Make the same fibre easier to eat
Offer a softer, leafier grass hay next to the regular kind rather than swapping abruptly, and let your rabbit choose strand by strand. Chopping long hay into shorter lengths helps a rabbit who can chew but cannot manage the twisting pull of a full strand. Serve more of the ration as loose floor piles at the height your rabbit already rests at, topped up little and often so it stays fresh-smelling, instead of one large rack fill that goes stale.
A few strong-smelling herbs folded through the pile can restart interest in a rabbit whose appetite, rather than ability, is fading. Slightly dampening very dry, dusty hay can make it easier for some older rabbits to handle, but remove damp leftovers the same day so nothing sits mouldy in the pile. Whatever the adjustment, change one thing at a time and watch the droppings: smaller, drier or far fewer droppings mean fibre intake is slipping and the plan needs rethinking quickly.
Support the rest of the meal around the hay
Keep pellets modest and consistent, since an elderly rabbit who fills up on concentrated food has even less reason to tackle hay. Leafy greens cut into manageable ribbons suit a mouth that struggles with big leaves, and a heavy, low water bowl is easier than a bottle for a stiff neck — offer both if your rabbit has always used a bottle, and watch which gets used.
Weigh your rabbit regularly at home in the same way each time, because slow weight loss hides under a fluffy coat until it is advanced. A rabbit who feels suddenly bony along the spine, stops producing normal droppings, drools, or refuses all food is not a feeding puzzle to solve at home: those signs need a vet promptly, since dental pain and gut slowdown both become emergencies in rabbits faster than owners expect.
Keep the old routine familiar
Change the mechanics, not the whole world. Keep feeding spots where they have always been, keep bonded partners eating together unless one is stealing the softest piles, and if that happens, give the elderly rabbit some meals in a quiet corner with its own chopped pile before rejoining its companion. Familiar smells, surfaces and company matter to an old animal, and stress alone can suppress appetite.
Note what worked — the softer cut accepted, the bowl preferred, the weight this week — rather than relying on memory across vet visits months apart. In KinsLe, Pet Passport gathers those eating notes, weights and appointment records into one portable packet, so a new vet or a sitter sees your elderly rabbit's whole feeding picture at a glance.