The enclosure must be finished before she is
Settling starts before the snake comes home. The enclosure should already be running at the correct warm and cool temperatures, verified with thermometers at floor level where she actually lives, not guessed from a dial. Give her at least two snug hides, one on the warm side and one on the cool side, small enough that she can feel the walls around her coils, plus a water bowl big enough to soak in and cover such as plants or branches that let her cross the enclosure without feeling exposed. A snake placed into a setup that is still being adjusted, drilled and rearranged around her spends her first week enduring renovation noise instead of learning that this new place is safe and predictable.
Days one to three: near-total quiet
Place her in the enclosure, ideally by letting her slide out of her travel container on her own, and then close the door and walk away. For the first several days your involvement is a brief visual check that she is in the enclosure and unharmed, plus a water refresh done calmly and quickly. No handling, no photo sessions with the door open, no introducing her to the household. Position the enclosure in a low-traffic room, and consider covering part of the glass if she is in a busy spot, because movement outside the enclosure reads as predators circling to an animal that does not yet know the local giants are harmless. A healthy snake hiding motionless all day during this period is settling normally, not sulking.
Feeding waits until hiding feels safe
Offer the first meal after several quiet days, commonly toward the end of the first week, in the evening and inside the enclosure, then leave her alone to take it or refuse it without an audience. A snake that refuses the first offered meal but has good hides and correct temperatures usually just needs more time, and offering repeatedly every day only adds disturbance. Once she has eaten, leave her completely alone for a couple of days to digest before any thought of handling. Keep a simple record of the arrival date, the first offered meal and whether she ate, because memory blurs and that sequence is the clearest evidence of how her settling is actually progressing.
Week two and the first handling
When she has eaten and digested and you begin seeing relaxed evening exploration, a tongue flicking calmly at the glass rather than striking or fleeing, the first brief handling session can happen: a few minutes, low and supported, ending before she becomes frantic. Build from there gradually rather than treating the end of week one as a starting gun for daily handling. Signs that settling is not going well include repeated food refusal stretching beyond a couple of weeks in an adult, constant daytime pacing along the glass, wheezing or open-mouth breathing, or mites visible around the eyes and scales; those call for a husbandry review and a reptile vet. Patience spent now is repaid for years in a snake that feeds reliably and handles calmly.
The hardest part of the first week is usually managing the humans, especially excited family members who each want a hold. In KinsLe, Care Teams lets you post the no-handling rule as her first week's task list, schedule the first feeding and first short handling for the right days, and let each helper mark the daily visual check complete with a timestamp.