Begin With Separate Cages and Real Distance
Set the young bird up in its own cage in a different area at first, with its own food dishes, perches, and toys. That separation protects the newcomer from an established bird that may defend territory, and it gives a youngster still building confidence a secure base where it can eat and sleep undisturbed. Have the young bird checked by an avian vet before close contact, and follow the vet's advice on how long to keep the birds apart, since a new arrival can carry problems that are not visible on a bright first day. During this stage, change cages and handle birds thoughtfully, washing hands between them, and let the older bird keep its familiar routine so the newcomer does not arrive alongside a loss of attention or perch space.
Let Them Hear, Then See, Each Other
Once the separation period your vet advised has passed, move the cages into the same room far enough apart that both birds can retreat from the other's view. Watch the body language that matters: relaxed feathers, normal feeding, soft contact calls, and interest without lunging at the bars are encouraging, while crouching, beak snapping, tail fanning with fixated staring, or a bird refusing food near the other cage says the distance is not yet enough. Swap a perch or an unwashed toy between cages so each bird investigates the other's scent and sounds at its own pace. Shorten this stage for nobody's convenience. A young bird that is rushed while still wary can learn that the older bird predicts stress, and that lesson is harder to undo than a slow start.
Supervised Meetings on Neutral Ground
Hold the first meetings away from both cages, in a room neither bird claims, with two separate play stands and treats placed well apart. Bring the calmer, more confident bird out first, keep sessions brief, and end while things are still relaxed rather than after tension appears. Never set the young bird on top of the older bird's cage, where trapped toes and a territorial beak meet through the bars. If one bird flies at the other, step in calmly, separate them, and return to the seeing-each-other stage for longer. Progress is measured in ordinary behaviour returning quickly after a startle, not in the birds sitting close together for a photograph.
Know That Sharing a Cage May Never Be the Goal
Some pairs graduate to relaxed out-of-cage time and still live in separate cages for life, and that is a successful outcome. Separate housing protects a smaller or younger bird at night, at feeding time, and during hormonal periods when an older bird's tolerance can shift. Keep feeding them separately so the youngster's intake stays visible, and keep duplicate resources if they share a play area, including water, perches at different heights, and more than one favoured toy. Tell everyone who helps with the birds which stage the pair has reached, because one unsupervised shortcut by a well-meaning helper can undo weeks of staging. KinsLe supports that consistency through Family Sharing, giving each helper the same profile and care details for both birds so the introduction rules do not depend on who happens to be home.