Escape-proofing for a Californian rabbit starts with respecting her size. Californians are a large meat breed — solid, muscular adults with real pushing power and a strong chew — so the casual barriers that contain a small house rabbit, a cardboard panel or a light folding gate, are obstacles she will eventually shove, chew, or squeeze past. A Californian loose in the house can also hurt herself: behind appliances, inside recliner mechanisms, and under low furniture are all places a big rabbit can wedge or be trapped.
Block the wedge points and hiding gaps first
Get down to rabbit height and find every gap a Californian could enter but not back out of: the spaces behind the refrigerator, washer, and water heater, the openings under kitchen cabinets where kick-plates are missing, and the undersides of reclining sofas and beds with low frames. Block them with solid material she cannot chew through quickly — wood boards, metal mesh panels, or purpose-made gap blockers fixed firmly in place — because a Californian will test a cardboard block with her teeth the same day you install it. The goal is a room with no entrance she can take that you cannot reach into after her.
Doors: the two-barrier rule for a strong rabbit
Most Californian escapes happen through doors, not walls. Fit a sturdy baby gate or a solid pen panel across her room's doorway — metal or heavy-gauge, tall enough that she cannot rear up and topple it, and latched rather than leaning — and treat the front door of the house with a two-barrier habit: she is never loose in a space with direct access to an exterior door while it is in use. Secure the garage door into the house, block access to any pet door sized for a dog, and brief everyone who visits, because guests open doors without a rabbit in mind.
Chewing is an escape route and a safety hazard
A Californian works on a room with her teeth, and chewing is how escape-proofing fails over time as much as how furniture gets ruined. Cover every cable in her area with hard split-loom tubing or run cables inside conduit she cannot reach, since one bite through a live cord is a life-threatening shock. Inspect her barriers weekly for chew progress: a gate or blocker she has been quietly working on is a countdown, and replacing a half-chewed barrier is the cheapest escape prevention there is.
Yard, balcony, and the rooms she never enters
If your Californian gets supervised outdoor time, the fence gets the same audit as the doors: Californians dig, so check for gaps at the fence base, bury or line the bottom edge where the soil is soft, and confirm gates latch at rabbit height — a gate that closes for a dog may leave a rabbit-sized gap at the bottom corner. Inside, close off rooms she should never enter rather than relying on memory: the laundry room with its appliance gaps and the garage with its chemicals and exits stay shut, always, with latches that a nudge cannot open.
The backup plan for the day a barrier fails
Even a well-audited house has a weak moment — a delivery, a guest, a gate left unlatched — and a Californian can be out of the door in the seconds it takes to sign for a parcel. KinsLe's Lost Pet Alert System sends a free alert to nearby Circle of Love members the moment you raise it, and a finder who spots your Californian can message you directly, which matters most in those first hours when she is still close to home.