What is happening on both sides of the gate
The gate dog is not really having an argument with yours; he is defending his boundary at close range with the gate guaranteeing he never has to back the performance up, which is why gate barking is so loud and so persistent. Your dog, arriving in the street, hears a challenge delivered from a few feet away and answers for his own reasons: excitement, frustration at the lead, a wish to join the noise, or genuine worry that the display is aimed at him. Each answered exchange rehearses the reply, and because the gate dog performs daily, the route itself becomes a cue: many dogs start winding up a house or two before the gate, lead tightening in anticipation. Breaking the pattern means changing what your dog does with his body and attention during those thirty seconds, and changing it gradually enough that he can succeed while the shouting is actually happening.
Build the alternative behaviour away from the gate
Teach the replacement where there is no gate dog at all. A hand-target or a look-at-me game, paid lavishly, becomes his job when excitement rises; practise it on ordinary streets until the response is cheerful and instant. Then add mild recorded or distant barking if you can arrange it, or use a quieter trigger house on your routes, one where a dog woofs once from a garden rather than detonating at a gate. The sequence you are building is always the same: hear dog, look at owner, get paid, keep walking. Distance is the other half of the method at this stage. If your dog cannot eat, cannot look away from the noise, or is already vocalising, you are too close for learning, and crossing the road or turning down a side street is training, not retreat.
Walk the real gate in graded passes
With the game installed, approach the problem gate in planned passes. First passes happen at maximum available distance, perhaps across the road and slightly before the house, rewarding every check-in as the barking starts. Over many walks, not one heroic afternoon, narrow the gap: same side of the road but early, then the full pavement pass, paying the look-away moments generously and keeping your own pace brisk and boring. If he does answer, avoid a shouting match of your own; simply increase distance, let the moment pass, and make the next pass easier, because a dog over threshold cannot bank the lesson anyway. Some dogs do better with a job for their mouth, carrying a toy past the worst stretch, which is a legitimate management tool rather than a failure of purity. Note that the gate dog's schedule may matter: a pass at a quieter hour can be the right intermediate step.
Consolidate without declaring victory early
Expect the behaviour to wobble after holidays, route changes, or a day when the gate dog is joined by a second dog; a brief return to distance restores it far faster than drilling at full range. Keep paying the calm pass for a long time after he looks reliable, because the gate dog will keep offering the old reward of a good shout indefinitely, and your payments are what keep the new habit competitive. If your dog's reactions extend well beyond this one house, lunging and barking at dogs in many settings, or if fear seems to drive it, a qualified behaviour professional can assess the wider picture. Map the trigger houses and his passing distances in KinsLe's Care Teams, so each walker knows the plan for every gate and completed calm passes are recorded against the route.