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Horses & Farm Animals · Grooming & Daily Care

How do I wash and store rugs and blankets between seasons?

Published October 27, 2026

The short answer

Before any rug is stored, get it properly clean and bone dry: brush off dried mud and hair, wash it to its care label's instructions — reproofing a turnout afterwards if its waterproofing needs renewing — and hang it until no dampness remains in the filling or straps, because a rug stored even slightly damp comes back mouldy and weakened. Repair tears and broken straps now, not on the first cold night of next season. Store rugs folded or rolled in breathable bags, off the floor, somewhere dry and rodent-proof, labelled by horse and weight. In KinsLe, Care Teams can carry the end-of-season rug wash as an assigned job so it actually happens before storage.

Why the end-of-season wash decides next winter

A rug put away dirty does not rest over the summer; it deteriorates. Ground-in sweat and grease feed mould and bacteria through the warm months, stitching rots quietly, waterproof membranes break down under caked mud, and the rug that looked merely grubby in spring comes out in autumn smelling sour, leaking, or falling apart at the straps. The wash before storage is therefore the single most valuable rug care of the year — it is preservation, not housekeeping, and it has to happen while the weather still allows thorough outdoor drying.

Preparing and washing

Start dry: hang the rug over a gate and brush off every bit of dried mud, loose hair and bedding before water touches it, because washing over caked filth just grinds it through the fabric. Fasten straps and buckles or tuck them in so they do not batter the material or the machine. Light stable rugs and fleeces can go in a large-capacity machine; heavy turnouts are often better washed by a rug laundry service with the equipment for them, or scrubbed by hand laid flat if you do them at home. Follow the care label's temperature and detergent guidance — ordinary detergents strip waterproof coatings, so use a rug-appropriate wash for turnouts and plan to reproof the outer afterwards if the fabric no longer beads water.

Drying and repairs before anything is packed

Dry rugs fully, hung in moving air, and then check again hours later: filling, binding and leg straps hold moisture long after the surface feels dry, and that hidden damp is the mould you find in autumn. While the rug is clean and visible, do the inspection that is impossible under mud — torn outer fabric, worn wither padding, frayed surcingles, cracked buckles, stitching coming away at the neck. Get repairs done now, while laundries and repairers are quiet, rather than joining the autumn rush with a cold horse waiting. A rug that is honestly worn out should be retired at this point too, not stored in hope.

Storing them so they come back ready

Store rugs clean and dry in breathable bags — never sealed in airtight plastic, which traps any trace moisture and guarantees mildew — and keep them off the floor on shelving in a dry tack room. Mice and rats nest enthusiastically in stored rug filling, so store where rodents cannot reach, and check once mid-season if your tack room is not secure. Label each bag with the horse's name, the rug type and its weight or warmth rating; come the first cold snap, you will pull the right rug first time instead of unpacking the whole stack. Keep one washed mid-weight rug accessible through the off season for freak cold nights rather than burying every rug at the back.

Putting the job on the calendar

Rug washing fails in most yards not from ignorance but from timing — the rugs come off one by one and get draped over a door until storage happens by accident. Set it as a fixed end-of-season job with a named owner: rugs collected, washed, dried, repaired and bagged across a set fortnight. KinsLe's Care Teams holds that seasonal task list against each horse, each rug's progress ticked off with a timestamp, so the turnout that went to the repairer is tracked until it is home and labelled.

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