The short answer for a Gypsy Cob
Plan on roughly an acre to an acre and a half of reasonable grazing for one Gypsy Cob, plus a shelter or stable, a surfaced or naturally dry area for standing and feeding, and fencing solid enough for a strong, good-natured horse that leans where it itches. Cobs are smaller and thriftier than the big riding breeds, so they do not demand warmblood acreage, but they are still full-sized horses with full-sized appetites, hooves, and mud-making ability. Treat half an acre of lush grass as a weight problem, and two acres of bog as a leg problem, and aim for the managed middle.
Built for travelling, not for standing in mud
Gypsy Cobs were bred by travelling families to pull caravans steadily all day, then graze verges and common ground at night. That history gives you a calm, hardy, economical horse, but one specific vulnerability dominates land planning: the long, dense feather down the back of each leg. Feather traps moisture and mud against the skin, and cobs standing for weeks in deep wet gateways are prone to sore, scabby skin under that hair and to hooves that soften and thrush in the wet. The acre matters less than its drainage. A smaller, dry field will keep a cob healthier than a bigger one that turns to soup every winter.
Laying out the cob's ground
Give the field a dry heart: hardstanding or a well-drained sacrifice area around the shelter, trough, and gate, where the cob can stand, eat hay, and be groomed out of the mud. Section the grazing so sections can rest, because cob hooves are heavy for the horse's size and poach wet turf quickly. A track or strip-grazing arrangement serves two purposes at once, resting the grass and limiting intake for a breed that fattens on fresh air. Leave room in the layout for the unglamorous essentials: a muck heap site away from watercourses, hay storage under cover, and access wide enough for a trailer or delivery vehicle, since cobs are frequently driven as well as ridden and harness and carts take storage space too.
Fencing, shelter, and daily leg care
Sturdy post-and-rail or strong electric fencing suits a cob; whatever you choose, assume a heavy horse will rub on it, and build accordingly. Shelter can be simple: most Gypsy Cobs live out contentedly with a field shelter, coming into a stable for the worst weather, for farrier visits, or when the ground needs them off it. Build the daily routine into the land plan rather than treating it as an afterthought: feathers should be checked and the skin beneath felt regularly, legs allowed to dry on clean standing, and any heat, scabs, or swelling under the feather raised with your vet rather than hidden under more hair. A wash and grooming area on hard ground makes that routine realistic in February, not just in June.
Weight, company, and workload
Like most cob types, a Gypsy Cob is an efficient converter of grass into condition, so spring and autumn flushes need watching and possibly grazing muzzles, restricted sections, or time on the yard with hay. Cobs are sociable, people-oriented horses that still need equine company; a companion's grazing belongs in the acreage, ideally another easy keeper on the same management. Regular steady work, the driving or hacking the breed was made for, keeps weight and feet in balance and lets a cob thrive on the modest end of the land range.
Sharing the cob routine with helpers
Feather checks, restricted sections, and yard time only work if every person handling the cob knows which field section is open and when legs were last done. In KinsLe, Family Sharing keeps your Gypsy Cob's turnout plan, feeding notes, and leg-care routine in one shared profile, so family and helpers give him the same care on every visit.