Start with the horns a Jacob is famous for
Build a Jacob sheep first aid kit around saline wound wash, gauze pads, cohesive wrap, hoof trimmers, a rectal thermometer, disposable gloves, blunt scissors, and, distinctively for this breed, extra bulky gauze and padding for horn injuries. Jacob sheep carry two and often four horns, sometimes more, and a horn cracked in a fence, knocked in a scuffle, or caught during handling can bleed far more dramatically than a skin scrape of the same size. Having enough clean padding to pack and hold against a bleeding horn, plus wrap to secure it without strangling the horn's base, is the single most Jacob-specific preparation you can make.
Fleece first aid: seeing the wound at all
A Jacob's piebald fleece, black or lilac patches on white, is beautiful and completely capable of hiding a wound, a patch of damaged skin, or maggot activity in warm weather until the sheep is caught and parted by hand. Keep hand shears or dagging shears in the kit for clipping wool back around any injury so you can see its true edges, and a torch for checking shaded skin under the belly and around the tail. Because every Jacob's spot pattern is unique, a phone photo of the treated sheep's markings, kept with your treatment note, is a genuinely reliable way to re-identify her in the flock for tomorrow's recheck, better than a vague note saying the black-faced one.
Hooves and everyday supplies for a hardy primitive breed
Jacobs are a hardy, largely self-reliant primitive breed, but their feet still suffer on wet, poached ground, so hoof trimmers and a hoof pick belong in the box alongside the wound basics. Add a soft rope or halter sized for a sheep whose horns make standard head collars awkward, threading carefully so straps do not press on horn bases, and leg tape or marker spray for flagging a treated animal. Keep a small supply of clean towels, since a Jacob lambed outdoors in rough weather may need drying and warming while you check the ewe, and gloves in more than one size so whoever is helping can actually stay gloved through a messy job.
Kit placement for a breed often kept on rough ground
Jacobs are frequently kept on smallholdings and rougher pasture, some distance from the buildings, so keep the main kit at the handling pen and a stripped-down pouch, gauze, wrap, saline, gloves, and a phone number card, in the vehicle or quad box you use for field checks. Restock the pouch from the main box after every use, because a half-used field pouch discovered during the next emergency is worse than none: it wastes the first minutes. Check both kits when you do routine flock tasks such as worm counts or condition scoring, and replace anything the damp has reached, since a kit that lives near livestock slowly absorbs moisture and dust.
Jacob injuries that need the vet, not the kit
Call your vet if a Jacob's horn is broken low near the skull, if bleeding from any wound does not ease with firm, sustained pressure, if she is not bearing weight on a leg, if an eye is injured or cloudy, or if a ewe's lambing stalls. Horn injuries close to the head deserve particular respect in this breed because of what lies beneath them, so describe exactly where the break is when you phone. Having her age, lambing history, and past treatments ready speeds that call, and KinsLe Pet Passport keeps a Jacob's whole record in one packet you can pull up in the field instead of relying on memory.