This is an inventory task, not a tidying task. A curious puppy needs only one handbag, one dropped tablet or one open tub within reach. Work through a named list of poisons, give each a locked or high home, and agree the response for the day something still gets eaten.
Medicines, Nicotine and the Handbag Problem
Human medicines head the inventory: painkillers, prescribed tablets, inhalers and the mixed contents of the bathroom cabinet and bedside drawer. A puppy chewing a blister pack or a dropped pill is a poisoning route that tidy homes leave open, so medicines gather in one closed cabinet or locked box, and the same rule extends to visitors' bags. Handbags, coat pockets, shopping bags and gym kits are unofficial medicine stores, carrying tablets, nicotine products, sugar-free gum and snacks at floor level; in a puppy household they hang up or live behind a closed door, every time. Nicotine products belong on the poisons list in their own right: cigarettes, vaping liquids and nicotine pouches concentrate a toxin a small puppy body handles badly, and flavoured products attract investigation. Treat supplements and herbal products as medicines for storage purposes; natural on the label says nothing about safety for a dog.
Kitchen Poisons Hiding in Ordinary Food
Several poisons on this list are simply foods stored at dog height. Xylitol, also labelled birch sugar, sweetens sugar-free gum and some peanut butters and is extremely dangerous to dogs, so gum leaves pockets and low drawers, and any peanut butter kept for the dog is checked on the label for that ingredient. Chocolate is toxic in all forms, with darker and baking chocolate carrying more toxin per mouthful, so the storage rule is a closed high cupboard rather than the coffee table bowl, the advent-style box on the sideboard or the child's bedroom stash. Grapes and raisins follow, including raisins and sultanas inside cakes, cereals and snack mixes, because a raided fruit bowl or a dropped handful is a realistic dose for a puppy. Onions and garlic in reach complete the kitchen group: a net of onions stored on the floor, garlic bulbs in a low basket and rich leftovers carrying them all count, and they move up with the rest of the inventory.
The Concentrated Group: Pods, Antifreeze and Rodenticides
Detergent pods are concentrated chemistry in a bite-sized, squeezable film, and a puppy that punctures one takes the dose in mouth and eyes; pods store sealed and high, full stop. Antifreeze is the inventory's quiet emergency: sweet-tasting and lethal in small amounts, it poisons from spills and drips as readily as from an open bottle, so containers are sealed and locked, and any spill or leaking vehicle is cleaned at once with the puppy shut away until the floor is safe. Rodenticides are poisons designed to be eaten, which makes bait blocks and loose pellets a direct invitation wherever a puppy roams; locked storage is their only acceptable home, and their use anywhere the puppy can reach is a decision to revisit with your pest control provider. Slug pellets and weedkillers sit in the same locked store by the same logic.
Storage Rules and the Eaten Response
The storage standard across the whole inventory is simple: closed, high or locked, with the floor, the open shelf and the zipped bag all counting as within reach. Do the move before the puppy arrives, keep a written inventory list where the household can check it, and re-run the list after shopping days and holidays, when poisons migrate around the home in bags and gift boxes. If anything is eaten despite it all, note what it was, the amount as closely as you can judge and the time, keep the packaging, and call your vet at once rather than watching for symptoms. Do not try to make the puppy sick at home unless a vet directs it. That response only helps a sitter act fast if the sitter knows it too, and Care Pass in KinsLe shows a temporary carer the locked-away list and the note-what-amount-time instruction in a scoped link, so the person holding the lead that afternoon works from the same inventory you set up.