What proof of purchase should actually say
A Khaki Campbell duck should come with at least a receipt or bill of sale that identifies the transaction properly: seller's name and contact details, the date, what you paid, and a description that picks this duck out — age or hatch date, sex as sold, and any band or marking she carries. Ducks from the same hatch look very alike, and khaki plumage offers few individual clues, so if you are buying several females at once, ask how each bird is distinguished on the paperwork, even if the answer is simply a numbered leg band recorded against her entry.
Keep the seller's details beyond the sale day. If a question arises later about her age, her background, or a health problem that appears across the hatch, the person who raised her is the only one who can answer, and a phone number scribbled nowhere is no use then.
Sexing and age: the two facts to pin down
For this breed, the most valuable words on the page are the ones confirming she is female and how old she is. Khaki Campbells are kept overwhelmingly for eggs, and a duck sold as a sexed pullet carries a very different value from an unsexed duckling that may mature into a drake. Ask how the sexing was determined and have the paperwork state it, along with whether she is a duckling, a growing bird, or already in lay.
Age drives everything you do next: what she should be eating, when laying should reasonably begin, and what housing and water she needs at her stage. A hatch date is far more useful than a vague description, so press gently for the real date or the closest honest estimate the seller can give, and write down which it is.
Laying and strain records instead of formal papers
Formal registration certificates are not the norm for ducks, and their absence is no red flag with a Khaki Campbell. What replaces them is a source and strain record: where the breeder's flock came from, whether the birds are bred with laying in mind, and, for an adult duck, her actual laying history — roughly how she has been laying, when she last moulted, and whether she has ever gone broody, which is uncommon but not unknown in the breed.
For a young bird, ask about the laying record of her mother line if the breeder tracks it, and treat the answer as background rather than a guarantee. What she eats, daylight, stress from a move, and her general health will all shape her own performance in your flock, and your records from arrival onward will soon matter more than the seller's.
Flock health and feeding history
Ask for a written note of the flock's health background: any illness or losses in the parent flock, veterinary care or testing the birds have had, and routine preventive care, recorded in general terms. Also get her feeding history in writing — what feed she is on now, treats she is used to, and whether she has had access to grazing and swimming or bathing water — so you can continue the same diet at first and change it gradually rather than upsetting her digestion during the stress of a move.
Note, too, how she has been kept: with other ducks, with chickens, indoors or out. A duck arriving from a large waterfowl group may take time to settle into a small garden flock, and knowing her previous routine explains early behaviour that would otherwise worry you.
Starting her record properly at home
From the first week, add your own entries: settling-in notes, first eggs if she is near laying, moults, and any health concerns, dated as they happen. That growing file is what a veterinarian or a future keeper will actually rely on, and keeping it in KinsLe's Pet Passport means your Khaki Campbell's source, feeding, and laying records stay together in one portable packet rather than scattered across receipts and memory.