Birth, breed, and identity records
A baby rabbit should come with, at minimum, a written record of its date of birth and sex. Age matters practically: rabbits should not leave their mother before about eight weeks, and you need the real birth date to time the move onto adult feeding, neutering discussions with your vet, and the first vaccinations. If the rabbit is sold as a purebred, expect a breed certificate or ring details where that applies, naming the parents and the line. If a breeder cannot produce any written record of age or parentage, treat that as information in itself.
Ask for the parents' details in writing — breed, size, and any health history the breeder knows, particularly around teeth. Malocclusion and dental problems can run in lines, and knowing the parents' dental history tells you and your vet what to watch as your rabbit's adult teeth and jaw settle. Note the breeder's full name, address, and phone number on the same sheet; a breeder who expects no further contact is waving a flag you should notice.
Health checks and treatments already done
Young rabbits may not yet have started vaccinations, depending on age, so the paperwork should state clearly what has and has not been done: any vet check the litter has had, any treatment for parasites, and any illness or losses in the litter. "Vet checked" with no date, practice name, or findings written down is worth very little — ask for the practice name so your own vet can follow up if needed.
Get the health picture of the whole litter, not just your kit. If siblings have shown runny eyes, sneezing, or failure to thrive, that context matters for your rabbit's first weeks at home. A careful breeder will volunteer this; note what you are told, with dates, even if it arrives verbally, and add it to the file the same day.
The feeding and housing handover sheet
The most immediately useful document is the transition sheet: exactly what the kit has been eating — hay type, pellet type and amount, and any greens already introduced — plus a small supply of that same food to take home. A baby rabbit's gut is delicate, and an abrupt food change on top of the stress of moving is a classic route to a dangerous digestive upset. The sheet should also describe the housing the kit is used to, litter material, and handling so far, so your setup at home feels familiar rather than entirely new.
Agree what happens if problems appear in the first days: a reputable breeder wants to know about illness straight away and will say so in writing, including whether they will take the rabbit back or contribute to vet care in defined circumstances. That agreement, the food supply, and a settling-in contact are worth more in week one than any certificate.
Starting your own file from day one
Put everything you receive into one folder immediately — birth record, health notes, transition sheet, receipt for the purchase — and add your first vet visit notes to it within the first fortnight. That first check confirms sex, weight, teeth, and overall condition, and sets vaccination timing, and it is far more useful when your vet can see what the breeder recorded.
A good breeder's paperwork gives a young rabbit a documented start rather than a blank page. KinsLe's Pet Passport keeps those first records together in one portable packet — birth details, breeder notes, and vet visits — ready to hand to any vet, boarder, or future owner who needs the full story.