Adopting a bonded pair is adopting a relationship as well as two rabbits, and the rescue knows that relationship better than anyone. The questions below are not a test of the rescue; they are how you collect the pair's history, health record, diet, and daily habits while the people who know them are right there to answer.
The Pair, Their History, and How the Bond Shows
Start with how the pair came to be a pair. Ask how each rabbit arrived at the rescue, how long they have lived together, and whether they were bonded by the rescue or arrived already bonded, because a long, settled bond behaves differently from a recent one. Ask how the bond shows on an ordinary day: sleeping pressed together, grooming each other, eating side by side without guarding, and how they react when one is taken out for a health check and returned.
Ask directly whether they have ever been separated for treatment or fallen out and been re-bonded, and what stress looks like in each rabbit. A good rescue answers these questions with specifics, and the specifics matter at home, where a house move is itself a stress that can strain a bond. Plan to keep the pair together through the move, travel them together, and house them together from the first night, with a backup pen ready in case the bond wobbles and they need a few supervised days to settle again.
Health, Neuter Status, and Diet as Recorded
Ask what the rescue's records say about each rabbit separately: neuter status, any treatment given, teeth and gut history as observed, weight, and any ongoing watch items, such as a rabbit whose droppings run small when stressed. Bonded rabbits share a home, not a medical record, and keeping the two records distinct from the start prevents years of confusion about which rabbit had what.
Diet needs the same precision. Ask what hay they eat and whether it is available constantly, which greens they are used to and in what amounts, what pellets and how much per day, and any foods that upset either rabbit. Sudden diet change is a classic trigger for gut trouble in rabbits, so bring home a supply of their current food and change anything slowly over days, keeping hay as the constant. Ask, too, what the rescue feeds as treats, so your first week does not undo their good routine with novelty.
Housing, Handling, and the Return Policy
Ask what housing the pair comes with, if any, and what the rescue requires in your home: floor space to exercise, a pen rather than a small cage as the base, litter setup, and whether the pair is litter trained. Ask how each rabbit handles being picked up, caught, and health-checked, because a rabbit who panics at handling needs a different first week from a confident one, and floor-level care is a fair plan for both.
Finally, ask the question nobody wants to use: what happens if the bond breaks down in your home, or the adoption simply fails? A rescue with a clear return policy, and a foster or trial period where offered, is protecting the rabbits, and knowing the policy before you need it keeps a hard week from becoming a crisis. When you bring the pair home, their rescue file should come with them in full. In KinsLe, the Transferrable Profiles move carries both rabbits' rescue notes and diet records into your care without a page going missing.