On moving day the leopard gecko should be the last thing unpacked and the first habitat finished. The order in the question is the right order: enclosure, then heat, then water. Each step depends on the one before it, because a water dish in an unheated enclosure in the wrong room helps nobody, and a gecko returned to a finished, familiar, warm home barely registers that a move has happened.
First, the enclosure in its permanent place
Carry the gecko to the new house in a small, secure tub, and leave it closed and quiet while you work. Position the enclosure where it will actually live, away from draughts, direct sun, and the traffic of movers, because moving an enclosure twice doubles the disturbance. Rebuild it as it was: the same substrate arrangement, the warm hide, the cool hide, and the humid hide in their familiar positions, with the same decor the gecko navigates by scent and memory.
Resist improving the layout on moving day. A new arrangement is a project for a settled gecko next month, not for an animal that has just travelled. Keep one familiar hide unwashed and put it back exactly where it belongs, because the scent of its own shelter is a strong settling signal for a species that maps its world largely by smell and touch.
Second, the heat, verified before the gecko returns
Reconnect the heat mat or overhead heat through its thermostat, with the thermostat probe in its original position, and let the enclosure come up to temperature. Verify the floor temperature inside the warm hide with a digital thermometer, aiming for roughly 88 to 91 degrees Fahrenheit (31 to 33 degrees Celsius), and check that the cool end sits in the low-to-mid 70s Fahrenheit (around 21 to 24 degrees Celsius), so the gradient the gecko regulates itself with is genuinely available.
Do not put the gecko back on a promise that the enclosure will warm up soon. A cold first evening slows digestion and adds stress to a day that already included a car journey and a strange-smelling room, and the check takes only as long as the heat needs to stabilise. If the thermostat or heat source was damaged in the move, keep the gecko in its tub in a warm, quiet room and replace the equipment before the gecko goes home, rather than improvising with unregulated heat.
Third, water and the small finishing details
With the heat verified, fill the water dish with fresh water and place it in its usual position, replace the dish of calcium powder if your gecko has one, and dampen the humid hide so a gecko approaching a shed has the moisture it needs. Switch the lighting to its normal cycle for the new house, matching the times the gecko is used to, because a familiar light pattern tells it when to be active even in an unfamiliar room.
Then return the gecko by opening its tub inside the enclosure and letting it walk out into its warm hide in its own time. Close the enclosure, dim the room, and leave it alone for the first evening. Offer food the following evening rather than immediately, and expect a cautious first feed or even a refused one, because a settled gecko that skips a single meal after a move is behaving normally. Contact a vet if the gecko refuses food for over a week or loses visible weight from its tail.
Moving day involves more hands than usual, and setup steps get skipped when everyone assumes someone else did them. KinsLe's Care Teams lets you assign the enclosure, heat, and water steps to named helpers, with each completed task marked by a timestamp, so the gecko's home is provably ready before it goes back in.