Start with a room that can hold an athlete
A Siberian's starter room needs to survive contact with a strong, confident jumper. Before she arrives, set up a litter box, food and water, a scratching post, and a climbing structure that is anchored to the wall or heavy enough that a muscular cat launching off it cannot shift it. Siberians are dog-like, sociable cats with a dense triple coat, and they explore a new space thoroughly and physically, testing shelves, squeezing behind appliances, and opening any cupboard whose latch is merely decorative. Remove breakables from height in the starter room, because anything she can reach, she will audition as a perch during her first patrol.
Secure each room before she audits it
A Siberian audits a new room more rigorously than you will, so your pre-check has to beat hers. Before opening each door, test window screens by pushing them, confirm that doors latch against a determined shoulder, and look at the room from the top down: the run along the kitchen cupboards, the wardrobe summit, the gap behind the washing machine. Block the gaps that end in trouble and deliberately furnish the safe heights with a wide perch or cleared shelf, because a Siberian given a legal summit uses the illegal ones less. Her thick coat sheds noticeably during seasonal changes, so settle her sleeping spots on washable bedding from the start rather than retraining her off the good sofa later.
Introduce resident dogs on her territory terms
A Siberian is famously good with dogs, but the order of introductions still matters. Let her claim the starter room and at least one more room first, with high escape routes in each, then let her observe the dog through a gate or cracked door while the dog is calm and leashed. Move to same-room meetings only when she chooses to stay at ground level in the dog's presence instead of watching from the top of the bookcase. Because Siberians mature slowly and stay kittenish for years, a young one may try to turn the dog into a playmate before the dog agrees, so keep early meetings short, supervised, and ended by you rather than by a chase.
Watch a confident cat for quieter signs
A Siberian's confidence can mask the normal settling checks, so keep doing them deliberately. She should eat heartily, use her litter box in the rooms she has claimed, and alternate exploration with deep, unbothered sleep. Slow the introductions if she starts over-grooming her dense coat, leaves meals unfinished, or picks one high refuge and stops coming down for anything but food. Groom her with a comb a few times a week in the starter room to keep loose undercoat from matting and to give you a calm handling routine before she has the whole house to evade you in. See your veterinarian if she stops eating, breathes with effort at rest, or has ongoing loose stools after the first unsettled days in the new home.
Finish with a full patrol circuit
A Siberian is introduced when her patrol circuit runs the whole home without hesitation: ground floor, stairs, summits, and back to a person for a headbutt. Complete the setup with a second litter box at the far end of the house, water in more than one room, and sturdy perches in the rooms where the family spends evenings, because she will want a throne at the centre of the action. Keep her combing and play sessions at the same times as during the introduction weeks. In KinsLe, Care Teams lets your household organise your Siberian's settling work, assigning who secures each new room, who feeds her, and who keeps up the combing, with every finished task marked and timestamped.