KinsLe

← Back to KinsLe Answers

Reptiles & Amphibians · Home & Lifestyle

How do I keep my bearded dragon warm and well through winter?

Published October 27, 2026

The short answer

A bearded dragon who slows down, hides and loses interest in food as the days shorten is likely heading into brumation — but let a vet confirm he's healthy enough to sleep first, because illness can look the same. Keep his basking spot hot and his UV light on a shorter winter day for the times he surfaces, weigh him weekly, and offer water without forcing food on a sleeping dragon. Steady weight and a dragon who rouses normally are reassuring; fast weight loss is a vet trip. A KinsLe Care Teams rota makes the weekly winter weigh-ins and water checks somebody's named job, each one timestamped as it's done.

Reading the slowdown

As daylight shortens, many bearded dragons drift toward brumation: sleeping for long stretches in the cool hide, ignoring the salad bowl, barely bothering to bask. It is a normal, instinctive winter pattern for this Australian desert species — but it is a convincing impression of illness, and the two get confused every winter. A dragon who is bright between naps, holds his weight and has been eating and passing waste normally is likely brumating. A dragon who was already off his food, losing weight or passing runny waste in autumn may not be, which is why the season starts at the vet, not in the hide.

The check that comes before the sleep

Before you let a dragon brumate, a vet check — including a fecal test for parasites — is the standard advice, because a parasite load or low-grade illness that a dragon copes with while active can overwhelm him while his body is idled down. Take his current weight and a note of his recent appetite and waste so you have a baseline to compare against. If the vet flags anything, winter becomes a keep-him-up season instead: full heat, full light, treatment as advised. Skipping the check is the most common winter mistake with this species, and the one with the worst endings.

The setup while he sleeps

Brumation is not switching the enclosure off. Keep the basking spot at its usual 100–110°F and the UV light running on a shorter winter day, around ten hours, so a dragon who surfaces can warm up, drink and digest properly. The cool end can run a little cooler and nights can fall to the mid-sixties, but no lower. Weigh him weekly — a gentle lift, a number, straight back to the hide — and offer water by dripping it on his snout when he is awake; most brumating dragons drink occasionally but eat little or nothing, and a sleeping dragon should never be force-fed or woken daily for meals he doesn't want.

When sleep stops being normal

Steady weight is the reassurance; a dragon who loses weight quickly, keeps a permanently black beard, has sunken eyes, gaping, discharge or a foul smell from the mouth is not brumating safely and needs a vet promptly. So does one who surfaces and cannot seem to warm up or move normally. For most healthy dragons, spring light reverses the process over a few weeks — appetite first, then energy — and the weekly numbers you collected tell the story of the whole winter at a glance. Those weekly weigh-ins and water checks are easy to forget in a busy house, and KinsLe Care Teams lets you assign them as named duties, each marked done with a timestamp.

Ask KinsLe

Can't find your question? Ask it here. We answer reader questions in KinsLe Answers — and we'll email you when yours is published.