Why this small trim makes a real difference
Hair that grows between the pads and flops over them acts like socks on a polished floor: the dog's pads cannot grip, so he slides on kitchen tiles, laminate, and wooden stairs, splaying his toes and straining joints to stay upright. Long pad hair also traps mud, forms tight little mats between the toes, and holds moisture and grit against the skin after wet walks. Keeping that hair level with the pads restores the grip the pads are designed to give and makes the post-walk foot check far easier. Long-coated breeds and spaniel and poodle types grow this hair fastest, but any dog whose footprints show hair dragging beyond the pads on a hard floor is due a trim.
Set up so he can stay calm
Choose a moment after exercise, when he is inclined to lie down anyway, and work on a non-slip surface with bright light angled at the foot. Have your tools, treats, and a damp cloth for muddy feet ready before you lift a paw, so you are never rummaging while holding him. Small dogs can rest on a table with a mat at a height you can work at comfortably; big dogs are often happier lying on their side on the floor with you beside them. Lift the paw gently and press the pad softly so the toes spread and the hair between them presents itself. If he pulls the paw away repeatedly, that paw is telling you to pause — do one paw per sitting if needed rather than pinning a foot he is guarding.
The trim itself: level with the pads, no deeper
Using small blunt-ended scissors or a quiet, small trimmer, remove only the hair that protrudes beyond the surface of the pads, cutting across level with them in the direction the hair grows. Work in tiny snips, checking with a fingertip after each: the finished foot should feel like pad, not fur, when you run a finger across it. Never angle points down between the toes or scoop into the V between pads, where the skin is soft, webbed, and easy to nick. Comb the hair gently outward with your fingers between snips so hidden tufts surface, and clear any small mat you find by teasing it apart first rather than cutting blindly into it. If you use a trimmer, keep strokes short and check the blade's warmth against your wrist, since small blades heat up against skin quickly.
Skin to leave alone and signs to act on
Before trimming each paw, look between the toes. Redness, swelling, a cyst-like bump between toes, broken skin, or a paw he licks constantly should not be trimmed around at home — the soreness has a cause worth a vet's look, and clipping can open irritated skin further. The same applies if you find a grass seed, a thorn, or matting pulled tight against the skin. A tiny nick, if it happens, usually stops with a few minutes of gentle pressure from clean gauze; a cut that keeps bleeding, gapes, or leaves him limping needs veterinary care the same day. Afterwards, watch his first walk on hard floors: confident, quiet steps confirm the trim is right, while continued slipping may mean the pads themselves are dry or cracked and worth discussing at his next check-up. For questions that come up as you learn the trim, put a follow-up question to KinsLe's Kimmy; she answers using the KinsLe Answers library.