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Reptiles & Amphibians · Feeding & Nutrition

What should I feed my leopard gecko each week?

Published October 26, 2026

The short answer

A leopard gecko's week should mix live insects across several feeding sessions: an adult eats every other day, taking roughly as many feeders as he will hunt in fifteen minutes, while a juvenile eats daily. Rotate the menu between crickets, small dubia roaches, and black soldier fly larvae, with mealworms as a supporting item rather than the whole diet. Dust insects with calcium at every feeding and a multivitamin once or twice a week, and leave a small dish of plain calcium in the enclosure for him to lick as he chooses. Alternating the dusting days is simple to hold steady in KinsLe's Care Teams, where the supplement pattern becomes a set duty on his profile.

How the week breaks down by age

Leopard geckos are dusk hunters, and the week's rhythm follows their age. Babies and juveniles burn food on growth and should be offered insects daily; a healthy adult settles into feeding every other day, and a chunky senior may do well on three sessions a week. Each session runs about fifteen minutes or until interest fades — offer insects one or two at a time so you can count what was actually eaten and remove the rest. Loose crickets left overnight can nibble at a sleeping gecko, so what isn't hunted comes back out.

Rotating the insects so no single feeder dominates

Build the week on two or three staple insects rather than one. Crickets bring movement that triggers the stalk-and-pounce hunt; small dubia roaches are quiet, escape-proof in a dish, and nutritionally dense; black soldier fly larvae arrive naturally calcium-rich and wiggle just enough. Mealworms are fine in the rotation but shouldn't carry the diet alone — they're fattier and their shells are harder work. Size every feeder to the gecko: no wider than the space between his eyes. Feed the insects themselves first — a day on carrot, leafy greens, and oats makes a gut-loaded insect a genuinely better meal than an empty one — and keep waxworms and hornworms as occasional treats, since a gecko who fills up on soft fatty feeders will snub the staples he needs.

Dusting: the week's fixed pattern

Dusting is where leopard gecko nutrition succeeds or fails quietly. Shake the insects with plain calcium powder at every feeding so they go in coated; once or twice a week, use a reptile multivitamin in place of the plain calcium. Alongside that, keep a small bottle-cap of plain calcium in the enclosure at all times — leopard geckos will lick it free-choice, topping themselves up in a way few other lizards bother to do. A gecko on a modern UVB setup and one without have different vitamin D considerations, so let your lighting setup guide which supplement style your vet recommends, but the calendar pattern of dusting days stays the same either way.

Reading his condition week to week

The fat tail is your gauge: a well-fed leopard gecko carries a plump, smooth tail — his savings account — while the body stays slimmer than the tail's widest point. A tail thinning down is an early warning he's under-eating or something is off; a gecko whose body balloons wider than the tail is being overfed, usually on treats. Shedding weeks can dent appetite for a day or two, and so can a cool spell in the room, since digestion slows with temperature. Weighing him monthly and noting the figure beside his feeds gives you a trend instead of an impression.

A pattern the whole household can run

Alternate supplement days are exactly the sort of detail that drifts when two people share feeding. Setting the rotation in KinsLe's Care Teams — calcium sessions, vitamin day, the weekly weigh-in — means the gecko's week runs identically whoever opens the enclosure, and the completed duties on his profile show at a glance whether the pattern held.

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