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Reptiles & Amphibians · Health & Vet Care

My leopard gecko isn't eating — what should I check first?

Published October 24, 2026

The short answer

Check the setup in order, because appetite loss in leopard geckos is so often environmental. One: temperatures — the warm hide's floor temperature should be roughly 31–33°C (88–92°F), measured with a digital probe or temperature gun at floor level, not air temperature from a dial on the glass; a gecko who cannot warm up cannot digest. Bring those readings and dates to the appointment in KinsLe's Pet Passport, where this gecko's records sit together in one portable packet for appointments, travel, boarding stays, and handoffs.

A spotted yellow leopard gecko rests on driftwood beside a planted glass terrarium, a digital thermometer and a misting spray bottle on the wooden table.

Work through the vivarium before worrying about the gecko itself. Start with heat: the floor of the warm hide needs to sit around 31–33°C, read where the gecko actually lies with a probe thermometer or an infrared gun, not from a stick-on dial, because a gecko that cannot get warm cannot digest a meal. Next, look for an approaching shed, since many geckos refuse food for a few days around one, and check toes and eyes for retained shed afterwards. Then weigh season and age: adults commonly eat less in cooler months, and females may pause while ovulating. Finally, check the offering itself — prey no wider than the space between the gecko's eyes, presented in the evening when it is active.

Then Check the Gecko

Look at the tail: a plump tail means reserves are fine and a short fast is low-risk; a thinning tail with appetite loss is a vet matter. Check the mouth for sores (mouth rot shows as redness or cheesy material at the gum line, often with drooling), the belly for hardness or a dark shadow (possible impaction), the skin for mites or retained shed, and whether stools are normal when passed. Weigh weekly in grams and change one variable at a time. A healthy adult can miss a week or two without concern in the right conditions; a juvenile who stops eating needs attention much sooner, since youngsters have small reserves.

Working With Your Vet

With a gecko off its food, your job is to gather clean evidence for the vet: when it last ate, what was offered, the floor temperatures at both hides, and any shed or weight change since. A checklist like this article helps you decide how quickly to book, but only an examination can name a cause — and a faecal sample plus dated feeding notes give the vet something solid to work from.

Contact an exotics vet if a juvenile stops eating for more than a few days, an adult for more than two to three weeks, or at any point with weight loss, a thin tail, diarrhoea, mouth sores, or lethargy. Bring your temperature readings and a faecal sample if one is produced — parasites are on the list of causes and need a sample to find.

Feeding dates, weights, shed records, and temperature logs tell a clearer story together than any one of them does from memory. Together, that evidence travels with this gecko in a single packet — the Pet Passport on KinsLe — so a boarding stay or a change of vet never means reconstructing its history from scratch.

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