5,104 answers about cats
Cats keep their people guessing — why the 3 a.m. zoomies, what belongs in the bowl, when a vet visit can’t wait. This page gathers the cat library of KinsLe Answers in one place, organized by topic from feeding and litter to behavior, health and senior care. Every answer is original, written by KinsLe, and tied to a real KinsLe feature.
561 answers in Behavior & Training — page 11 of 24
Stop genuine fighting by separating first and rebuilding the relationship in stages, because cats who are truly fighting — screaming, fur flying, injuries, one cat now hiding or toileting outside the tray — will not sort it out if left together. Give each cat its own room or zone with food, water, tray and resting…
Prevent door dashing in layers, because a curious or startled indoor cat only needs one distracted arrival to slip out. Create a routine at the door itself: a perch or greeting spot a few feet inside where your cat is rewarded for waiting, a household rule that nobody opens the door until the cat is spotted, and a…
Your cat claws the stair carpet because it offers exactly what scratching requires — a firm, textured surface that resists the claws — in a spot your cat passes constantly, and vertical posts elsewhere in the house do not answer a cat who prefers to scratch flat. Put a flat or gently sloped scratcher directly beside…
Treat cable chewing as an urgent safety job first and a behaviour job second: unplug and move what you can today, cover exposed runs in split tubing or cable protectors, and block the gaps behind desks and televisions where cords dangle. Then give your cat legal things to chew and chase, because a cat working a cable…
Stop the chasing by giving your cat's hunting drive a better target and giving your dog an escape from the game, because a cat who ambushes ankles and tails is usually under-stimulated rather than dominant. Run a proper play session with a wand toy before the times chasing peaks, ending with a small meal to close the…
You reduce tracking by catching granules in the first few steps from the tray, because litter leaves on paw pads and in the burst of digging and kicking that follows a visit. Use a large, textured mat that extends well beyond the tray exit, keep litter at a depth your cat can dig in without excavating, and sweep or…
Read your cat by looking at the whole animal rather than one part, because a tail, ears, eyes and posture only make sense together and in context. A tail held high with a soft curve usually signals a friendly, confident approach, while a puffed tail with an arched back signals a frightened cat trying to look bigger.…
A cat who wants to be left alone usually says so in stages: the tail starts thumping or lashing, the ears flatten or swivel back, the skin along the back ripples, and the body leans away or goes very still under your hand. Petting that continues past those warnings is what turns a tolerant cat into one who bites…
Introduce a new litter by mixing, never by swapping overnight, because cats judge litter by feel and smell under their paws and a sudden change can read as a completely different toilet. Start with a thin layer of the new litter beneath the familiar kind, then raise the proportion over a week or more while keeping a…
Two cats share peacefully when neither one has to queue, compete, or walk into a tray the other has just used. Give them at least one tray per cat plus an extra, place them in separate quiet spots rather than side by side, and scoop each one promptly so a used tray never becomes a reason to hover or ambush. If one cat…
Choose litter from your cat's point of view: most cats prefer a fine-grained, unscented litter that feels soft underfoot, stays dry on top, and does not smell of perfume. Start with one tray of a plain option, watch whether she digs, covers, and returns without shaking her paws or perching on the rim, and change only…
Trust with a shy rescue cat is built by making yourself predictable, quiet, and easy to escape from — and then letting her set every pace. Start with one small safe room, sit on the floor at her level without reaching for her, and let routines like feeding happen at the same times and in the same place daily. Offer…
Turkish Vans are affectionate in bursts but are generally not cats who enjoy being picked up and held for long. Strong, energetic, and famously independent, a Van usually prefers showing love at floor level — head-butts, following you around, and joining whatever you are doing, sometimes including the water. Most…
Turkish Angoras enjoy affection, but typically as the one who decides when it happens. This elegant, athletic breed often adores its chosen person, follows them around, and accepts brief, graceful cuddles — then slips away to leap, play, or survey the room from the highest shelf. Being grabbed or held too long tends…
Siamese cats are among the most likely breeds to genuinely enjoy being picked up and cuddled — many demand it, loudly. A typical Siamese follows her person everywhere, comments on everything, and treats an available lap or pair of arms as her rightful place, sometimes draping herself over a shoulder. Even so, she…
Scottish Folds are famously sweet and people-oriented, and many do enjoy gentle cuddles, but handling needs extra care because the gene behind the folded ears also affects cartilage elsewhere in the body. Some Folds stiffen or resist being lifted when their joints are sore, so a cat who suddenly objects to being held…
Russian Blues are devoted to their chosen people but cautious by nature, so being grabbed and lifted usually ranks low on their list. A bonded Blue may accept cuddles from her favourite person on a predictable schedule — many have a set lap time — while avoiding visitors' arms entirely. Sudden scoops from above can…
Norwegian Forest Cats are affectionate in a calm, undemanding way, but most are not enthusiastic about being picked up. This big, self-assured breed usually prefers affection at ground level — head-butts, slow blinks, and settling near you — and many will endure a lift politely before stepping away. A few individuals…
Many Maine Coons tolerate being picked up better than most cats, and some genuinely enjoy it, but size changes everything. A large adult needs full support under the chest and hindquarters or a lift feels insecure, and even a gentle Coon may prefer sprawling beside you to sitting in a lap that is simply too small. Let…
Japanese Bobtails are sociable, playful cats who usually welcome attention, but many are too busy to sit still for long cuddles. A Bobtail will chirp a greeting, trot after you, and happily be carried briefly if he is used to it, then launch himself down to chase a toy or investigate a noise. Short, supported holds…
Most Egyptian Maus enjoy affection from their own people, but being lifted off the ground is a different matter. This spotted, athletic breed bonds intensely and often follows a favourite person from room to room, yet many feel exposed when their feet leave the floor and will wriggle free within seconds. Let your Mau…
Very much so — Devon Rexes are famously clingy, people-obsessed cats who typically adore being picked up, held close, and carried to wherever you are going. With huge ears, a pixie face, and a wavy coat, a Devon will climb into arms, perch on shoulders, and sleep pressed against your neck or under the covers. Support…
Yes, Cornish Rexes usually love being picked up and cuddled — their fine, wavy coat offers little insulation, so your body heat is a genuine attraction alongside their affectionate, clownish nature. A Cornish Rex will seek laps, burrow under blankets beside you, and ride shoulders, then race off for a game and return…
Yes — Burmese are among the breeds most likely to genuinely enjoy being picked up, carried, and cuddled, often demanding it. A Burmese typically trots to meet you, stands up against your leg, and relaxes completely in your arms, sometimes draping over a shoulder for a tour of the house. Support that surprisingly…
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