Clean a Havana Brown's ears safely by wiping the visible outer ear with a cotton pad dampened in vet-approved ear cleaner, working around the folds and never pushing anything into the canal. Her short, fine coat means the ear opening is easy to see, so use that visibility for a good inspection first: healthy ears are…
Read the full article
Brush a Havana Brown's teeth properly with a soft cat toothbrush and cat toothpaste, sweeping small circles along the gumline and spending longest on the outer surfaces of the upper back teeth where plaque builds fastest. Havana Browns are affectionate and unusually cooperative for cats, so introduce the brush through…
Read the full article
Trim a Havana Brown's claws safely by pressing each toe to extend the claw and cutting only the transparent tip, staying well clear of the pink quick, with sharp cat scissors in bright light. Havana Browns are social, dog-like cats who usually enjoy being involved, so invite yours onto your lap and turn the trim into…
Read the full article
Brush a Selkirk Rex's teeth properly by lifting his lip and sweeping a soft cat brush with cat toothpaste along the gumline in small circles, concentrating on the outer faces of the upper back teeth. Selkirks are famously tolerant and people-oriented, so most accept a routine quickly if you build it over a week of…
Read the full article
Trim a Selkirk Rex's claws safely by pressing each toe pad to extend the claw, then snipping only the clear, curved tip well short of the pink quick inside, using sharp cat claw scissors in good light. Selkirks are patient, tolerant cats, but their dense curly coats can hide the toes, so part the fur and work one paw…
Read the full article
Clean a Turkish Angora's ears safely by wiping only the visible outer ear with a cotton ball or pad dampened with a vet-approved ear cleaner, never pushing anything down into the ear canal. Her large, upright ears collect dust in the folds, so work gently around each ridge and stop if she shakes her head hard or pulls…
Read the full article
Brush a Turkish Angora's teeth with a soft cat toothbrush or finger brush and cat toothpaste, working at a gentle angle along the gumline where the outer surfaces of the back teeth collect the most plaque. Start by letting her taste the toothpaste and lifting her lip for a few seconds at a time, building over days…
Read the full article
Trim a Siberian's claws safely by working when your cat is calm and settled, pressing each toe gently to extend the claw, and snipping only the clear, curved tip well away from the pink quick inside. Siberians are large, strong cats with thick fur between their toes, so part the toe tufts to see the whole claw before…
Read the full article
Let her sit her way: a Scottish Fold often chooses that upright Buddha pose because her joints are stiff, so trim where her paws rest rather than flipping her or extending a leg. Press each pad with the lightest pressure that extends the claw, find the pink quick in good light, and snip only the tip. Split the job…
Read the full article
Respect the equipment: a Norwegian Forest Cat's claws are long, thick climbing tools, and toe tufts hide their bases, so spread the fur, press the pad to extend the claw fully, and find the quick before cutting. Leave a generous margin, since the quick runs far in a thick claw, use sturdy sharp clippers, and take the…
Read the full article
Use the breed's clinginess: a Devon Rex wants your lap anyway, so let him settle against you, press each toe pad to extend the claw, and snip only the curved tip, keeping a clear margin from the pink quick you can see through the shell. Front paws one day and back paws the next is fine for a fidgety Devon. Inspect the…
Read the full article
Hold the paw, do not pinch it: a Cornish Rex has fine-boned, slender toes and almost no coat padding your grip, so cradle the paw from below and press the pad just enough to extend each fine claw. Use sharp cat-sized clippers, since dull blades can split a narrow claw, and snip only the tip beyond the clearly visible…
Read the full article
Trim during the slump, not the zoomies: Burmese are athletic and social, so wait until yours is draped on a lap after play and food, press each toe pad to extend the claw, and snip only the translucent hooked tip, staying clear of the pink quick inside. Take small amounts every couple of weeks, check the forgotten…
Read the full article
Stage the job: a Siberian's felting happens in the undercoat of that triple coat, so split each pad lengthwise into ribbons, hold the base flat against the skin, and pick each ribbon apart from its lower edge, combing it fully clear before starting the next. Keep sittings near ten minutes and spread a bad shed across…
Read the full article
Handle the cat as carefully as the mat: a Scottish Fold's dense plush coat felts at the neck, chest, and hindquarters, but this breed's stiff joints mean you should never drag a leg straight or pin her flat to reach one. Work each mat apart between your thumbs while shielding the skin at its base, then comb through in…
Read the full article
Find the mat with your fingers first: a Russian Blue's plush double coat springs back over tangles, hiding them behind the ears and along the collar line. Pinch the lump apart sideways into a flat web, hold its base against the skin, and tease it loose strand by strand before a fine comb touches it, using short…
Read the full article
Split the mat before you remove it: in a Norwegian Forest Cat it is the woolly undercoat that felts, so hold each pad at its base, divide it lengthwise into narrow strips, and pick each strip apart from the bottom up, finishing with a comb drawn from the skin outward. Work the armpits, belly, and britches in short…
Read the full article
Start with your fingers: on a Burmese, mats are rare in that short satin coat, so hold the base of the clump flat against the skin and pick it apart from the outer edges inward, finishing with a fine comb in tiny strokes. A little cornstarch helps the silky hairs slide free. Skip scissors completely, since skin tents…
Read the full article
Work around the furnishings, not through them: part your Siberian's inner-ear hairs under good light, then wipe the visible inner ear with gauze dampened with feline ear cleaner, using short strokes from the center outward. Never trim or pluck those furnished hairs, and never push anything past the part of the ear you…
Read the full article
Clean only what you can see: lift your Scottish Fold's folded flap gently, never flatten it, and wipe the underside and outer folds with a cotton ball dampened with feline ear cleaner. Skip cotton swabs entirely, because the canal bend hides sooner under a fold and a swab can push wax deeper. Dry the covered pocket…
Read the full article
Clean a Russian Blue's ears safely by examining them during a quiet, familiar handling moment and wiping only the visible inner surface with a pad lightly dampened with a vet-recommended cleaner, stopping well short of the canal. Russian Blues are reserved and easily startled by new procedures, so introduce the pad…
Read the full article
Clean a Norwegian Forest Cat's ears safely by parting the heavy ear furnishings so you can see the surface, then wiping the visible folds with a pad dampened with a vet-recommended cleaner, never reaching into the canal. Those dense inner-ear hairs and lynx tufts hide wax from casual view, so this breed needs…
Read the full article
Clean a Devon Rex's ears safely by gently wiping the wide, low-set ear flaps with a pad dampened with a vet-recommended cleaner, lifting away the oil and wax this breed produces generously, and never probing the canal. A Devon Rex's enormous ears and naturally oily skin mean the inner ear often looks dirtier than a…
Read the full article
Clean a Cornish Rex's ears safely by wiping the broad, visible inner ear with a soft pad dampened with a vet-recommended cleaner, working gently across the open surface and never inserting anything into the canal. Those oversized, wide-open ears collect wax and oil faster than a typical cat's because so little hair…
Read the full article