Glen of Imaal Terriers are not among the most separation-prone breeds, but individual Glens do become anxious when left, and more become busy and destructive from boredom. This sturdy Irish terrier is quieter and less frantic than most terriers, yet deeply attached to his household, and an under-exercised Glen may…
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Flat-Coated Retrievers are genuinely prone to separation distress, because few breeds are as people-centred as this one. The Flat-Coat is the exuberant, slow-to-mature retriever who greets every return like a reunion and wants to be in the middle of family life, so long empty days can bring whining, chewing, and…
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Curly-Coated Retrievers are among the less clingy retrievers, so full separation anxiety is less typical in this breed than in softer, people-shadow types. A Curly is independent, reserved with strangers, and quite capable of amusing himself — which cuts both ways, because a bored Curly left alone may dig, chew, or…
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Black and Tan Coonhounds can struggle when left alone, though boredom often matters as much as attachment. This big scent hound was bred to work in a pack and follow trails for hours, so a silent, empty house with nothing to sniff can leave him restless, baying at windows, pacing, or chewing door frames. Tire him out…
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A recall that works at home and fails at the park has not been disobeyed — it has been outbid, because the park offers squirrels, playmates and a thousand smells that your living room never asked your dog to refuse. Treat home recall as stage one finished, and train the missing middle stages on a long line in quiet…
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Cafe calm is a taught skill, not a personality trait: your dog needs a well-practised settle on a mat, built at home first, before the clatter, dropped food and passing dogs of a cafe ask for it under pressure. Start with the quietest outdoor table you can find, keep first visits to a few minutes, bring a long-lasting…
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Loose-lead walking clicks when your dog understands one simple rule: a slack lead makes the walk continue, and a tight lead makes it pause. Reward your dog frequently for walking beside you with the lead loose — far more often than feels necessary at first — and calmly stop whenever it tightens, moving again only when…
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Outdoor food is one of the hardest tests because dropped chips, bones and picnic scraps are high value and your dog often spots them first, so leave it must be fluent indoors at close range before it stands a chance outside. Teach it as a paid choice — your dog looks away from a covered treat and earns a better one…
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For something dangerous, do not rely on a cue your dog barely knows and never grab at their mouth — a dog who feels chased or prised will swallow faster or defend the prize. Practise drop it in calm moments by trading boring held items for something clearly better, delivered from your hand the second the item falls,…
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Indoor recall works because your home removes the competition — no squirrels, no other dogs, no fascinating smells — so your dog can learn that coming to you always pays better than whatever they were doing. Start at a few paces, call once in a bright voice, reward lavishly when your dog arrives, and only ever call…
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An older dog learning manners for the first time is not behind — adult dogs often focus better than puppies, and the same reward-based teaching works, just paced for stiff joints, slower processing and a lifetime of habits that currently pay. Start with three foundations in short, quiet sessions at home: responding to…
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Car whining usually means one of two things: your dog is overexcited because every trip ends somewhere thrilling, or uneasy because the car predicts nausea, noise or a stressful destination. Short, calm practice trips that end nowhere special — sit in the parked car, then a two-minute drive, then home — rebuild the…
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Dawn waking usually pays: the first morning your dog barked or pawed at you and got fed, walked or let out, the wake-up call became a trained routine, and daylight creeping earlier simply moves the alarm forward. Shift the whole evening later — last toilet trip, exercise and a small late feed closer to your own…
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Sock stealing is rarely about the sock itself — your dog has learned that a sock smells strongly of you, is soft to carry, and reliably starts a chase game the moment you notice. Remove the payoff by keeping laundry behind a closed door or in a lidded basket, and teach a trade: offer a favourite toy, praise the swap,…
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Shredding toilet paper is self-rewarding play — the roll spins, the paper streams, the confetti is glorious — so management wins most of this battle: bathroom doors closed, spare rolls in a closed cabinet, and the roll on the holder flipped to feed from underneath, which spins far less invitingly. Then give the…
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Door scratching is a request with claws: your dog wants through — to you, to the garden, to whatever is on the other side — and scratching has worked before, because someone eventually opens the door. First protect the door with a clear scratch shield or a baby gate while you work, then teach a replacement request he…
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A park runaway is a recall problem plus a value problem: whatever he runs toward — other dogs, squirrels, a fascinating stranger — currently outbids you. Rebuild recall on a long line where he cannot practise ignoring you, paying every return with something genuinely exciting, and let him earn freedom in stages: quiet…
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A bin-raiding dog has usually been paid for it — one chicken carcass found at midnight teaches more than a month of scolding. So the first fix is making the bin impossible: a heavy bin with a locking or latched lid, or the bin moved inside a cupboard, while you train a strong 'leave it' away from the real bin and…
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Excited peeing is not a house-training failure and scolding makes it worse — your dog is not choosing to leak; an over-full tank of greeting excitement simply overflows, most often in puppies and young dogs who usually grow out of it. Lower the temperature of arrivals: come in quietly, ignore him for the first minute,…
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Night pacing has a cause worth finding before you try to tire it away: dogs pace after dark because they are uncomfortable, anxious, need the toilet, or — especially in older dogs — confused by early cognitive change. Rule out the physical first with a vet visit if the pacing is new, and note when it happens, how long…
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Heel nipping is herding instinct with nowhere to go: movement — running children, joggers, other dogs trotting past — switches it on, especially in collies, heelers, corgis and their crosses. Punishing it rarely works because the chase itself is the reward, so the fix is management plus an outlet: keep him on a lead…
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Mouthing hands during play is leftover puppy software: your dog is excited and your moving hands look like the game itself. Give his mouth a legal target by keeping a tug toy or ball between you in every game so teeth land on the toy instead of skin, and the moment teeth do touch your hand, pause the game — stand…
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Mounting other dogs is rarely about dominance — it most often appears when a dog is overexcited, socially overwhelmed, or unsure how else to join play, and neutering alone does not reliably switch it off. Watch the build-up — the fixed staring, hovering chin, and tense circling that come before he climbs on — then…
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A dog who clears the fence needs two fixes at once: make the garden harder to leave and less worth leaving. Walk the boundary looking for launch pads — bins, benches, stacked wood near the fence line — raise or angle the top of a fence he sails over cleanly, and never leave him outside unsupervised while jumping still…
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