10,460 answers about dogs
From a puppy’s first feeding schedule to a senior dog’s comfort care, dog owners ask it all — this page gathers the dog library of KinsLe Answers in one place. Browse by topic below, from feeding and training to health, grooming, safety and travel. Every answer is original, written by KinsLe, and tied to a real KinsLe feature.
900 answers in Grooming & Daily Care — page 12 of 38
Brush your French Bulldog's teeth with a small, soft-bristled dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste, angling the bristles toward the gumline and working in tiny circles a few teeth at a time. A Frenchie's flat face and compact jaw leave the back teeth crowded and hard to reach, so lift the lip rather than prising the…
Brush a Dachshund's teeth while the dog lies supported along a cushion or your forearm, keeping that long back level, and clean in small circles along the gumline of his surprisingly strong jaws, reaching the back teeth under the long muzzle. A Dachshund's stubborn streak means short, matter-of-fact sessions with a…
Brush a Chihuahua's teeth with a finger brush or the smallest brush you can find, working in tiny, feather-light circles, because that miniature jaw crowds its teeth and can stay sore from retained baby teeth. Support the little dog fully on a cushion in your lap, keep sessions very short, and warm your hands first,…
Brush a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel's teeth gently with a small brush, gathering the long ear feathering back first, then cleaning the closely set teeth in soft circles at the gumline, with the most patience for the back teeth of that small mouth. Cavaliers are eager to please and sensitive to tone, so keep your…
Brush a Cane Corso's teeth only on a foundation of trust: let this powerful guardian accept lip lifting and mouth handling in calm practice first, then work a large brush along the gumline with unhurried control, giving the big back teeth their share of attention. Never force the jaw of a dog this strong, and keep…
Brush a Cairn Terrier's teeth with a small brush, working in quick, businesslike passes along the gumline of that compact terrier mouth, and expect to negotiate: a Cairn is independent and will test whether sitting still is really required. Settle him on a raised surface where he cannot simply march off, keep sessions…
Brush a Bulldog's teeth in very short sessions in a cool room, lifting the lip fold by fold and cleaning the tightly packed teeth in gentle circles, stopping often so this flat-faced dog can breathe and swallow comfortably. A Bulldog's short jaw crowds and sometimes tilts its teeth, so work slowly around each overlap…
Brush a Bull Terrier's teeth by working calmly along that long, strong jaw, lifting the lip and cleaning in small circles at the gumline, with patient attention to the back teeth where this breed's powerful chewing packs plaque. A Bull Terrier can be stubborn about mouth handling, so build cooperation in short…
Brush a Boxer's teeth by letting this bouncy, undershot-jawed dog settle first, then lifting the lip and cleaning along the gumline, paying extra attention to the upper teeth where the Boxer's bite leaves them exposed and to the gum edges, which in Boxers can thicken over time. Keep it playful but controlled, with…
Brush a Boston Terrier's teeth in short, cool sessions, lifting the lip on that short face and cleaning the closely set teeth in small circles, pausing whenever his breathing gets noisy. A Boston's flat muzzle crowds the teeth and leaves little room, so angle a small brush carefully along the gumline and never hold…
Brush a Border Collie's teeth by turning the job into a trained task: give this intense, clever dog a clear start cue, brush in a set order along the gumline, and finish with a release word and a reward, because a Collie cooperates best when he understands the assignment. Work after exercise, when the edge is off his…
Brush a Bichon Frise's teeth with a small brush or finger brush, lifting the lip gently and cleaning in tiny circles, because that compact mouth crowds its teeth and Bichons are well known for building tartar early. Work on a raised, non-slip surface or in your lap so you can see the small back teeth, and keep the…
Brush a Bernese Mountain Dog's teeth by seating this big, gentle dog beside you, lifting the lip on one side, and working a large soft brush in small circles along the gumline, giving the broad back molars extra attention where plaque settles in that wide mouth. Keep sessions calm and unhurried, because a Bernese who…
Brush a Belgian Malinois's teeth by first training the handling itself: let the dog lick dog toothpaste from the brush, practise lifting the lip and touching the teeth in very short sessions, and reward calm stillness, because a Malinois's cooperation is earned through training, not held in place. Then brush in small…
Brush a Beagle's teeth by lifting the lip gently and using a soft dog toothbrush or finger brush with dog toothpaste, working in small circles where the teeth meet the gum, especially the big back teeth and the outer faces of the canines. Start with a few teeth at a time over several short sessions, because even a…
A Yorkshire Terrier needs a pin brush with smooth, polished pins, a stainless steel comb with a fine section for the face, a small soft slicker for the body in a shorter cut, detangling spray and tiny rounded-tip scissors. Yorkie hair is fine and silky, much like human hair, single-layered and continuously growing,…
A West Highland White Terrier needs a stripping knife or stone for the harsh outer jacket, a slicker brush, a steel comb, chalk or finger cots for grip while stripping, rounded-tip scissors for feet and face, and nail clippers. The Westie's white double coat is meant to be hand-stripped so the wiry, weather-resistant…
For a Standard Poodle you need the full curly-coat kit: a large slicker brush, a long steel comb, electric clippers with guard combs, rounded-tip and longer straight scissors, a dryer, nail clippers for a large dog and ear care supplies. Everything works harder than on the smaller poodles because there is more dog —…
A Staffordshire Bull Terrier needs the simplest kit on this list: a rubber grooming mitt or curry, a soft bristle brush, a mild shampoo for bath day, nail clippers and an ear-cleaning cloth. The Staffy's coat is short, smooth and single, with no undercoat to rake out, so grooming is about skin rather than hair — the…
A Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier needs a slicker brush, a stainless steel comb, a pin brush for the longer adult coat, detangling spray and rounded-tip scissors. The Wheaten's silky single coat is a mat magnet — it tangles behind the ears, in the beard, under the collar and in the leg furnishings, and mats can start…
A Siberian Husky needs an undercoat rake, a slicker brush, a pin brush for the longer furnishings, a wide steel comb, and ideally a high-velocity dryer for the twice-yearly coat blow. This breed's double coat is extremely dense, and when the undercoat releases it comes out in sheets — the rake and dryer are what clear…
A Shih Tzu in a long coat needs a pin brush with polished, ball-free pins, a fine steel comb, a gentle slicker for leg furnishings, detangling spray, and small rounded-tip scissors for trimming around the eyes and paw pads. This breed's hair grows continuously and tangles where it rubs — behind the ears, under the…
For a Shiba Inu, keep a slicker brush, an undercoat rake, a double-sided steel comb and a rubber curry for baths, plus nail clippers — and a plan for the dramatic twice-yearly coat blow. A Shiba's double coat is thick, straight and naturally clean, needing only weekly brushing most of the year, but during a blow the…
A Shetland Sheepdog needs a pin brush, a slicker brush, an undercoat rake for shedding periods, a steel comb, and small thinning shears for tidying feet and ears. The Sheltie's glory — that full mane and heavy double coat — hides a soft undercoat that packs down at the skin while the top looks brushed, so the key…
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