10,460 answers about dogs
From a puppy’s first feeding schedule to a senior dog’s comfort care, dog owners ask it all — this page gathers the dog library of KinsLe Answers in one place. Browse by topic below, from feeding and training to health, grooming, safety and travel. Every answer is original, written by KinsLe, and tied to a real KinsLe feature.
900 answers in Grooming & Daily Care — page 17 of 38
A Barbet needs a moderate-to-high amount of daily care, and most of it is about the coat and company rather than anything complicated. Expect a solid daily outing with real exercise and water if you can offer it, a few minutes checking the dense, curly coat for tangles and debris, and regular fuller grooming sessions…
Trim a Labrador Retriever's nails safely by taking small slices off the tip at a time rather than one bold cut, because Lab nails are usually dark and the quick inside cannot be seen. Clip or grind a little, check the cut face, and stop when a soft grey or pink centre starts to appear — that is the quick approaching.…
Brush a Labrador Retriever's teeth by working a soft dog toothbrush at a gentle angle along the gumline, concentrating on the outer surfaces of the back teeth where plaque builds fastest, in short daily sessions. Use toothpaste made for dogs — a Lab will treat the flavour as a snack, which helps — and never human…
A Xoloitzcuintli needs neither haircuts nor brushing in the hairless variety, which is the best-known form of this ancient Mexican breed. With skin exposed instead of a coat, the grooming work shifts entirely: regular gentle bathing to keep skin clear, moisturising when it dries, and protection from strong sun and…
A Wirehaired Vizsla needs weekly brushing plus periodic hand-stripping, not a routine clipped haircut. Its dense wiry outer coat over a thick undercoat — finished with a beard, eyebrows and longer hair on the neck and body — protects this Hungarian gundog in cold water and rough cover. Dead wire hair has to be pulled…
A Spanish Water Dog is the opposite of most breeds here: never brush it, and do give it haircuts. Its single, curly, woolly coat would be ruined by brushing, which pulls the curls apart into a frizzy halo; instead the coat is left alone to form natural cords or curls, and clipped down evenly a few times a year —…
A Sloughi needs neither regular haircuts nor serious brushing. This North African desert sighthound carries a short, dense, smooth coat that lies flat with no undercoat to speak of, so a weekly rub with a soft brush or grooming mitt lifts the few loose hairs and keeps the skin healthy; there is nothing long enough to…
A Schipperke needs brushing, not haircuts. Its dense black double coat forms a distinctive silhouette — a thick ruff around the neck, a cape over the shoulders and fuller culottes on the backs of the thighs — and that pattern only exists at natural length. Brush weekly to keep the undercoat clear, and expect intense…
A Pharaoh Hound needs neither haircuts nor much brushing. Its coat is short, fine and glossy — a single layer lying close to the body in rich tan shades — with almost no undercoat to shed or mat; an occasional pass with a soft brush or a grooming mitt to lift loose hair and spread skin oils is plenty, and many owners…
A Japanese Spitz needs brushing only — its stand-off white double coat should not be cut into a haircut. The long outer coat grows through a dense undercoat and gives the breed its bright, cloud-like outline, and it sheds heavily at times, so brush thoroughly once or twice a week and daily while the coat is blowing.…
A Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen needs brushing plus occasional coat work, but not a clipped haircut in the usual sense. Its long, rough double coat — with a harsh outer layer, a dense undercoat and a distinctive beard and eyebrows — is maintained by weekly brushing and by hand-stripping or careful trimming to remove…
A Finnish Lapphund needs brushing, not haircuts. Bred to herd reindeer in Lapland, it wears an extremely thick double coat — a long, coarse outer layer over a soft, packed undercoat — that insulates against cold and sheds water. Brushing once a week keeps it in order, with far more frequent sessions when the undercoat…
A Biewer Terrier is the exception to the no-haircut rule: its long, silky, single coat grows continuously and will reach the floor, so it needs either daily brushing to keep it tangle-free in full coat or regular haircuts into a shorter, manageable style. Most pet owners choose a puppy cut every few weeks and brush…
A Bergamasco Sheepdog needs neither regular haircuts nor regular brushing once its coat has formed its natural flocks. The hair starts loose and woolly in puppyhood, then gradually mats into flat, felted strands that protect this Italian herding dog from weather and predators. Brushing those flocks out would undo the…
A Belgian Tervuren does not need regular haircuts, and the long coat should not be clipped short. Brushing is the real job: work through the fawn-and-black double coat once or twice a week, and much more often during the heavy seasonal sheds when the soft undercoat comes out in handfuls. A tidy trim around the feet…
A Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen sheds moderately, on a continuing basis rather than in huge seasonal dumps. This little rough-coated scent hound has a harsh double coat that releases loose hair steadily, with a noticeable increase in spring and autumn, and a weekly brush-through plus periodic hand-stripping keeps…
Yes, a Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen sheds, moderately and pretty much year-round, with heavier shedding as the seasons change. The rough, wiry double coat drops loose hair steadily rather than in dramatic clumps, and weekly brushing with a slicker and comb, plus occasional hand-stripping of the longest coat, keeps…
A Wirehaired Pointing Griffon needs a thorough brush and comb once a week, plus hand-stripping of the harsh outer coat a few times a year to keep its texture and color. That rough, wiry double coat sheds very little day to day, but dead hair left in place makes it look shaggy, trap debris, and mat in the beard and leg…
A Welsh Springer Spaniel needs brushing two to three times a week, with a fuller groom every few weeks to work through the feathering on the ears, chest, legs, and belly. That silky, water-resistant red-and-white coat mats fastest behind the ears and where the legs meet the body, so brief sessions beat one long…
A Toy Fox Terrier needs the least grooming of almost any breed: a once-over with a soft brush or grooming mitt once a week keeps its short, satin-smooth coat clean and shiny, and a bath only when it has got into something messy. There is no trimming, stripping or detangling to schedule. The grooming time this breed…
A Tibetan Terrier needs brushing every other day as a minimum — many owners settle on short daily sessions — because its profuse double coat tangles from the undercoat up and mats fast when sessions are missed. The long outer hair and soft undercoat must be brushed in layers to the skin, with extra care during the…
A Swedish Vallhund needs one good brush a week for most of the year, stepping up to short daily sessions when its thick double coat sheds heavily in spring and autumn. The medium-length, harsh topcoat over a dense soft undercoat is otherwise low-maintenance — no trimming, occasional baths, and dirt that brushes out…
A Spinone Italiano needs a weekly brush through its dense, wiry coat, hand-stripping a couple of times as the coat cycles to remove dead hair, and far more frequent attention to its beard, which drips water across the house after every drink. The rough single-textured coat is comparatively forgiving — it resists…
A Skye Terrier needs gentle, thorough brushing two or three times a week to keep its long, flowing double coat free of tangles, with each session worked in sections down to the skin. The coat is never trimmed into shape; its dramatic length is natural, parted along the back, and it mats quietly underneath if brushing…
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