10,460 answers about dogs
From a puppy’s first feeding schedule to a senior dog’s comfort care, dog owners ask it all — this page gathers the dog library of KinsLe Answers in one place. Browse by topic below, from feeding and training to health, grooming, safety and travel. Every answer is original, written by KinsLe, and tied to a real KinsLe feature.
900 answers in Grooming & Daily Care — page 8 of 38
Trim a Chihuahua's nails in tiny snips while she sits supported on your lap, taking only the curved tip so the pale quick stays untouched inside the small nail. Work in bright light, steady each delicate leg without pulling it straight, and stop after a few nails if trembling or lip-licking builds rather than pushing…
Trim a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel's nails by gently parting the long feathering around each small paw so every nail is visible, then snipping the tip in fine cuts and stopping well before the quick. This soft-natured spaniel usually accepts trimming held close on a lap, provided sessions stay quiet and unhurried.…
Trim a Cane Corso's nails on the floor with calm, confident handling, using large sharp clippers and taking modest slices from these very thick, usually black nails. Read each cut face for the dark centre that marks the quick, build cooperation through paw-handling practice, and never rely on strength to hold a dog of…
Trim a Cairn Terrier's nails by brushing the wiry coat back from each small, hardy paw and snipping the tip in quick, confident slices. This independent little terrier respects brisk, no-fuss handling more than prolonged soothing, so keep the session moving, reward cooperation, and watch dark nails by their cut…
Trim a Bulldog's nails in a short, cool session on the floor, working paw by paw while this heavy, flat-faced breed rests comfortably and breathes easily. Take small slices from the thick nails, watch the cut face for the quick on dark nails, and never keep a Bulldog standing and stressed to finish faster. Sharing the…
Trim a Bull Terrier's nails in small slices with unhurried, matter-of-fact handling, accepting that this strong and famously stubborn breed sets the pace. Settle her on the floor, support each sturdy toe firmly, and judge dark nails by the changing centre of the cut face rather than by length alone. When sessions stay…
Trim a Boxer's nails after play has taken the bounce out of him, using sharp clippers sized for strong, thick nails and taking small slices while you watch the cut face for the quick. A Boxer leans, paws, and plays with his feet, so teach stillness with rewards and work paw by paw rather than trying to overpower his…
Trim a Boston Terrier's nails with small cuts in a short, calm session, keeping this compact, wriggly breed cool and unhurried on a secure surface. His short coat leaves every nail easy to see, so use that advantage to read each nail's quick before cutting, and stop well short of it on dark nails by watching the…
Trim a Border Collie's nails in small, predictable steps, working in the same paw order every time so this pattern-hungry breed can anticipate what comes next. Let your Collie settle with a defined place to lie, reward stillness in short bursts, and read dark nails by the changing centre after each thin slice.…
Trim a Bichon Frise's nails by first parting the soft white coat around each small paw so the whole nail is visible, then snipping only the curved tip in small cuts. Many Bichon nails are light enough to show the pink quick, which makes it easier to stop a safe distance short of it. Keep sessions short and pleasant…
Trim a Bernese Mountain Dog's nails on the floor where this giant, gentle breed can lie comfortably, parting the thick fur around each large paw so you can see the whole nail before cutting. Take small slices from the thick nails, watch the cut face for the dark centre that signals the quick, and check the dewclaws…
Trim a Belgian Malinois's nails in very small slices, reading the changing centre of each dark nail, and channel this driven breed's focus into a trained station position instead of holding him down. A Malinois who is given a clear job — stand, hold still, earn release — usually cooperates far better than one who is…
Trim a Beagle's nails in tiny slices at a slight angle, following the curve of each nail and stopping well before the pink quick shows through lighter nails or a darker centre appears in dark ones. Work paw by paw on a non-slip mat after a walk, when this scent-driven breed is steadier, and reward calm stillness…
Standard Poodle curls mat at their roots, especially behind the ears, in the topknot, in the armpits, around the collar, and in the bracelets on the legs. Work on a freshly washed, fully dried, and line-brushed coat if you can, hold each mat at its base, and split it into small sections you comb out from the tips with…
Husky mats are clumps of blown undercoat wedged in the dense coat behind the ears, around the neck, in the armpits, and in the trousers on the rear legs. Line-brush down to the skin in small sections, anchor each clump at its base, and tease it open from the edges with fingers and a comb across several relaxed…
A Shih Tzu's long, dense double coat mats faster than almost any other breed's, especially behind the ears, in the beard, in the armpits, and where a harness crosses the chest. Soften each mat thoroughly, hold it at the root, and split it lengthwise into narrow strands you comb out from the tips, working in patient…
Rottweiler mats are uncommon in that short, coarse double coat, so a firm clump usually means undercoat has packed behind the ears, around the neck and collar, or on the backs of the thighs. Soften the clump, hold the surrounding skin steady, and pick the packed hair apart from the edges with your fingers before…
A Labrador's short, dense double coat seldom mats on the body, so a hard clump usually means packed undercoat behind the ears, at the neck where a collar sits, or in the slightly longer hair at the backs of the thighs. Soften the spot, brace the skin, and work the packed hair loose with your fingers and a comb in…
Golden Retriever mats gather in the feathering where it rubs and stays damp: behind the ears, in the armpits, on the chest, and in the long hair on the backs of the legs and tail. Hold each knot at its root, soften it, and tease it into strands with your fingers before combing from the tips in stages, keeping sessions…
German Shepherd mats are usually dense wads of trapped undercoat behind the ears, in the thick neck ruff, in the armpits, and in the breeches on the backs of the thighs. Line-brush down to the skin in thin sections, hold each wad at its base, and tease it open from the outside edges with your fingers and a comb before…
True mats are uncommon in a French Bulldog's short coat, so a dense clump usually sits in a facial fold, the neck roll, behind an ear, or under a harness strap. Soften it, keep the skin beneath it flat and still, and pick the packed hair apart with your fingers in a cool, unhurried session with plenty of breathing…
A long-haired Dachshund mats where that low body works hardest: behind the long ears, in the chest fringe that brushes the ground, under the armpits, and along the belly and tail feathering. Have your dog stand so the feathering hangs straight, hold each knot at its root, and tease it apart with fingers before combing…
Only a long-coat Chihuahua grows real mats, usually behind the ears, in the neck ruff, and in the leg and tail feathering, and everything about the job scales down for such a tiny dog. Use your fingers and a small fine comb, hold each knot at its root, and work in very short sessions on a soft surface at your lap…
On a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, mats almost always hide at the base of those long, feathered ears, in the armpits, and along the chest and belly feathering. Work one small knot at a time, holding the hair at its root so the pull never reaches the skin, and split a big mat into vertical strands with your fingers…
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