Why a bearded dragon outage is urgent, not casual
A bearded dragon runs on external heat more completely than the snakes and geckos in most collections: it basks at temperatures well above room level to digest, move and fight off illness, and it needs ultraviolet light daily over the long term. A power cut of a few hours in a mild home is an inconvenience; a long cut in cold weather is a genuine welfare problem that deserves active management from the first hour. Start by moving the enclosure, or the dragon in its secure carrier, into the warmest occupied room and closing that room down against drafts.
Stretching the heat already in the enclosure
Insulate a bearded dragon's enclosure from the outside with blankets or foam over the sides and back, leaving the front partly visible so you can watch the dragon without opening anything. Covering the top mesh slows the escape of warm air, but leave ventilation gaps rather than sealing it airtight. Take the dragon's temperature context from a battery thermometer at the basking end, not from how the room feels to you in a jumper. Every lid opening costs heat, so batch your checks: look, read the thermometer, adjust warmers, close, and leave the dragon in the dark and quiet between rounds.
Hand warmers, hot water and body heat
Place wrapped disposable hand warmers beneath or against the outside of one end of a bearded dragon's enclosure so a warm zone exists without any hot surface the dragon can press against directly. A towel-wrapped hot-water bottle works the same way for shorter stretches and needs refilling as it cools. For a dragon that has become sluggish with cold, supervised body-heat sessions help: the dragon rests in a secure pouch or against your chest under a layer of clothing, awake and attended, never left asleep on a person. Daylight through a window warms glass, not dragons, and a tank parked in sun can overheat or chill unpredictably, so do not use a windowsill as a basking substitute.
Feeding and water while the basking spot is down
A cool bearded dragon cannot digest properly, so heavy feeding during an outage does more harm than a missed day. Offer water first, dripped onto the snout or offered in a shallow dish, and if the dragon is reasonably warm from your measures, a few greens are a safer offer than insects it cannot process. Resume normal feeding only after the basking spot has been back at temperature for several hours and the dragon is alert and moving normally. Watch for a dragon that gapes constantly, blackens its beard for hours, or stays limp; those signs, especially together, mean the dragon needs a vet once travel is possible.
When the answer is to move the dragon
If your home is heading toward temperatures unsafe for people, a bearded dragon should be evacuated with you or placed with someone whose power is on, in its carrier with its food, warmers and care card. A dragon left in a freezing house because its enclosure is heavy is a dragon at real risk, and temporary smaller housing beats perfect housing at a dangerous temperature. Write the destination plan before you need it, including who has agreed to take the dragon and what they will need. Sending that plan and the dragon's feeding, heat and handling details ahead through a KinsLe Care Pass means the receiving household is set up before the carrier even arrives.