Run the trial like a small experiment with the same fields every day: day, food served, amount offered, amount eaten, appetite, stool, vomiting, skin and coat, and energy. Change only the food, stage the changeover gradually as your vet directs, record treats, table scraps and any stolen food honestly, and photograph…
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Keep the record to one page with exactly five fields for every food you log — food, texture, amount eaten, time and reaction — because a relief feeder needs to serve the same meal, notice a refusal early and report back in the same simple terms. One finished line might read: salmon wet food; smooth pâté texture; 60…
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Confirm with the registry that actually holds the record, not with the confirmation screen: submit the change, then log back in afresh, or phone and ask for a read-back, and check that the record now displays the new address and phone number exactly as you entered them. Remember what the chip itself does: a scanner…
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Start from the chip number: a vet or rescue scan yields the number, and if you do not have it, adoption or vet paperwork usually lists it. Put the number into a generic microchip lookup and the number's prefix identifies which registry holds the enrolment — the lookup does not display owner details — then contact that…
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Build the binder around five labelled sections — identity, health, prevention, daily care, emergencies — with emergencies moved to the front so a sitter finds contacts first. Fill identity with microchip number, registry name, insurance details and a clear photo; health with vaccination certificates and visit…
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Build a sitter file that lets someone run your cat's normal day without guessing: identity and photo, feeding amounts, times and food location, water and litter routine, hiding places and handling notes, any medication exactly as your vet directed, your vet and out-of-hours contacts, written permission to authorise…
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Fully detailed, and tightly contained: the exact entry code, the alarm code if there is one, and the spare key's precise location, written in this section and nowhere else. Say what happens if a code fails or the sitter is locked out — phone the named backup person, never force entry — and close the loop: keys and…
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Detailed on arrangements, silent on shopping: state that a policy exists, say exactly where the policy document lives, and write the spending authorization in your own terms — the ceiling you choose and what you count as an emergency that may go beyond it. Add the policy reference copied from the document itself, that…
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Detailed enough to act on at 2 a.m. without searching for anything: your regular practice's name, address, and number, the after-hours emergency clinic's name, address, and number with the route worked out before you leave, its night entrance and parking noted, and a clear contact order — you first, then the vet, then…
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The vaccine entries themselves do not change, but everything around them does: get a complete copy of the record from your old vet, register with a vet near the new home, and ask for the record to be transferred and filed there. Check that no booster falls due in the busy weeks around the move, update the address and…
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Check each vaccine entry for the date it was given and the date the next booster falls due, then flag anything that expires before or during your two weeks away. Ask your boarding cattery, sitter, or vet what proof they require and how current cover must be, book any booster your vet says is due well before departure,…
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Tell your insurer about the move and update the details that price and identify the policy: your new home address and postcode, your phone and email if they change, the veterinary practice you will use now, and whether your cat's lifestyle changes, such as gaining garden access or becoming indoor-only. Update the…
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Update the registry itself, because the chip in your cat stores only its number, not your address: change the home address to the new house, confirm your mobile number and email are current, and check any secondary contact still makes sense. Do it before moving day or on the day itself, since cats often slip out…
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Check that the registry holds the mobile number you will actually carry on holiday, a current email, and your correct home address, because a found cat is only reunited through those details. Add your sitter or house-sitter as a temporary or secondary contact if the registry allows it, plus a local emergency contact…
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Detailed enough that a first-time sitter never has to guess at the box. Name where the box stands, say that scooping happens at least daily, describe the full-change rhythm exactly as you run it, and note the litter depth your cat knows, the same litter to top up with, where waste goes, where supplies live, which door…
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Collect a written contract, the kitten's registration papers matching this kitten, the vaccination record with the practice's details, and the parents' health-test results in writing, plus the food the kitten is on and a supply of it. Before leaving, have the microchip scanned and match the number…
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Mark every opened pouch and bag on the day you open it, with the date written on the item itself in your own hand, so the age of the food is readable at a glance by anyone. Keep part-used pouches refrigerated and use them within the maker's printed guidance, keep dry food in its own bag folded and sealed with the…
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Work out, for each treatment, the last date it was given and the next date it falls due, then check whether that due date lands inside your two weeks away. If it does, ask your vet well before you leave whether the treatment should be given before departure or left for your sitter, and write down exactly what was…
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Lay the whole year on one view, anchored by the fixed points: the annual veterinary visit, vaccination entries as your veterinarian sets them, grooming on your cat's own coat cadence, and boarding booked ahead of each household trip. Give every entry its practical tail, what to bring and what to ask, set a reminder…
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Replace anything tied to the old address: your cat's list needs your new home address, the name, address, and phone number of the nearest emergency vet to the new home, and a local person near the new address who can reach your cat quickly. Keep your own mobile number if it has not changed, add a nearby neighbor or…
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Write instructions for the day you cannot get home: your cat's identity and photo, where she hides when frightened, feeding amounts and times, litter routine, any medication exactly as your vet directed with how she takes it, your vet and an out-of-hours contact, and written permission for a named person to authorise…
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Send a complete, honest picture, not just paperwork: her vet history and any ongoing conditions or medication, her exact diet and feeding routine, and the microchip details so registration can transfer to the new keeper. Add behaviour notes a rescue can actually use — how she is with children, other cats and visitors,…
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Yes — a first-year record is short to keep and useful for years. Weigh your kitten weekly, always on the same scales, and log the grams beside the date, then note the milestones as they pass: weaning onto solid food, each vaccination visit your vet schedules, litter training, first seasons if she is unspayed, and the…
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Write one page your sitter can follow without phoning you: who the cat is and where she hides, exactly what food goes in which bowl and when, litter routine, any medication with plain instructions, normal behaviour versus call-the-vet behaviour, and your vet's number plus your own. Add practical house details —…
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