A pen to live in and a room to run in
A rabbit's first home should be a ground-level exercise pen large enough for full, stretched-out lying, several hops in a straight line, and standing on hind legs without touching the top, used as a base rather than a full-time confinement. Rabbits kept only in a small cage lose muscle, get sore hocks on hard floors, and become frustrated chewers, so plan daily supervised time outside the pen in a bunny-proofed room from the first week, not as a later upgrade.
Proof that room at rabbit height: cover or lift every cable, block access behind heavy furniture, and protect baseboards and table legs in the corners a rabbit will test first. Cardboard panels along a skirting run save both the woodwork and an argument with the rabbit, who will return to a favourite chewing spot with real persistence.
Litter tray with hay, and flooring a rabbit can grip
Place a large, low-sided litter tray at the end of the pen the rabbit chooses for toileting — most rabbits pick a corner within the first day — lined with paper-based litter and topped with a generous pile of hay. Rabbits eat while they toilet, so a hay-filled tray trains itself far faster than an empty one, and one tray per rabbit plus a spare suits a bonded pair. Cover the pen floor with a washable rug, fleece, or other grippy surface over anything slippery, because a rabbit's feet have fur instead of pads and slide badly on laminate or tile, which stresses joints and makes a nervous rabbit panic.
Add a cardboard castle or wooden hide with two entrances cut in, big enough to hold the rabbit fully stretched. A single-door hide becomes a trap in the rabbit's mind; two doors make it a through-route and it will be used far more.
Hay at all hours and water from a bowl
Build feeding around unlimited grass hay, available in the litter tray, in a rack, and in a pile in the hide corner, because hay drives a rabbit's digestion and wears the teeth that grow throughout its life. Around that base, serve a daily portion of leafy greens, introduced one kind at a time in the first weeks, and a small measured portion of plain pellets rather than a constantly full bowl of muesli-style mix, which rabbits pick through for the sweet pieces.
Offer water in a heavy ceramic bowl as the main source; most rabbits drink more naturally from a bowl than from a bottle, and a bowl is easier to scrub daily. Sit the bowl on a tray away from the hay rack so spilled water does not soak the feeding area.
Pairing, handling, and the daily job list
Wherever possible, start with a bonded pair or plan toward bonding with a second rabbit later, because rabbits are social and a single rabbit needs substantial daily human company to make up the difference. Handle a new rabbit at floor level, letting it approach and take food, and lift only when necessary with full support under the chest and hindquarters; rabbits picked up carelessly can kick hard enough to hurt themselves.
Hay refills, litter changes, green portions, and a weekly check of nails, hocks, and the coat are light jobs that suit sharing across a household. Putting them on one roster where each is timestamped when finished is what KinsLe Care Teams provides for this rabbit's pen, so the evening hay top-up never depends on memory.