The short answer for a Holland Lop
The grooming mistakes that harm a Holland Lop are tearing at mats in her dense undercoat, cutting mats out with scissors, bathing her, and brushing hard against the coat until the skin beneath is raw. A Holland Lop's coat is among the thickest of any small rabbit breed, with a heavy undercoat that felts readily around the rear, behind the front legs, and at the skirt. That coat needs more grooming than a short-coated breed's, which gives this rabbit more chances to be hurt by grooming done roughly or with the wrong tools. Gentle, regular combing prevents nearly every problem on this list.
The mat mistakes specific to this dense coat
A mat in a Holland Lop's undercoat pulls a fold of skin up into itself as it tightens, so the two common responses both injure: yanking the mat out tears skin, and sliding scissors beneath it cuts the hidden fold. Work a mat apart with your fingers from its outer edges instead, loosening a few hairs at a time, and comb out what frees up. A mat that has felted tight against the skin is a job for a vet or professional groomer with proper tools, not a home experiment. Prevention is easier than any cure: the rear skirt and the creases behind the legs felt first, so those areas need combing between full grooming sessions, not just during them.
Bathing and borrowed products
Bathing a Holland Lop risks chilling and shock like any rabbit, and her dense coat makes it worse by holding water against the skin and drying slowly into tighter mats than it had before the bath. A damp cloth on a soiled patch, followed by thorough drying and a comb-through, does the job safely. Dog and cat shampoos, detanglers, and scented sprays also harm this breed: she will lick products out of that thick coat for hours afterwards, swallowing whatever was applied. Nothing needs to go on a Holland Lop's coat beyond water on a cloth; a rear that is dirty at every check points to diet or mobility trouble for the vet, not to a stronger shampoo.
Brushing against the coat and over-brushing
Combing a Holland Lop backwards against the lie of the fur, or scrubbing a stiff slicker brush over the same patch repeatedly, irritates skin that the owner cannot see under the undercoat until it is already sore. Work in the direction the coat grows, use a wide comb for the undercoat and a soft brush for the surface, and stop over any area where she flinches. Over-long sessions are their own mistake on this breed: a Holland Lop who has sat through forty minutes of combing may be too stressed to eat normally afterwards.
Neglecting the hidden zones: ears, rear, and skirt
The skin under a Holland Lop's lopped ears traps loose fur and warmth, and a groomer who never lifts the ears misses crusting and buildup forming at the ear base until it is established. The rear is the other blind spot: dense fur around the tail collects droppings and dampness that sore the skin and, in warm weather, attract flies, so parting and checking that fur belongs in every grooming session. Loose undercoat left through a whole moult felts into a solid layer that drags on the skin with every hop.
A comb-first routine everyone can share
Safe Holland Lop grooming is a short, repeated list: wide comb with the coat's lie, fingers only for mats, ears lifted and rear parted every session, damp cloth instead of baths, and nothing from the dog's shelf. Whoever grooms her should know that flinching means stop and look, because this coat hides the reason. Broken skin, a scissor cut, spreading sore patches, or a lop who stops eating after a stressful session all need a vet. Setting that routine down in KinsLe through Care Teams, so each helper grooms this Holland Lop the same careful way and marks the session done, protects her coat from the one mistake no single owner makes alone: inconsistency.